158 thoughts on “Top 15 Luxury Watch Brands Ranking”

1. Ben May 6, 2023

   Thanks for the detailed article and comprehensive replies in the comments. Glad to see IWC up there!
   Do you have IG?

   Reply ↓
   1. Alexander Post authorMay 7, 2023

      And thank you, Ben, for your kind comment.
      At the moment, I don’t have Instagram.

      Cheers!
      Alexander

      Reply ↓
2. Luis February 6, 2023

   Hi Alexander

   Impressive blog. A pleasure to read it.
   Where would you place Glasshutte Original in that ranking?
   What do you think about Grand Seiko Sprint Drive Movement ? and related with the previous is in your opinion Grand Seiko around the 15th position?
   Thank you

   Reply ↓
   1. Alexander Post authorFebruary 7, 2023

      Welcome Luis to swissdiverswatches.com!

      I’m glad you like the blog.

      I’d probably place Glashütte Original in the top 16-25 category.
      Few people beyond the world of watch enthusiasts have heard of this brand, and due to its lack of fame, the resale value therefore isn’t optimal.

      It’s not an independent brand either; it’s owned by the Swatch Group. Yes, it does make movement complications, but it didn’t invent them and doesn’t have the same impact on the history of horology as, say, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, A. Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Breguet, and Blancpain.

      What distinguishes Glashütte Original from other brands is that, unlike most, it offers high horology, manufactures movement complications, and was founded in 1845. It has a long and respected history under its belt. For this reason, it belongs to a small club of exclusive and elite watchmakers but isn’t quite comparable to the very best luxury brands and watchmakers out there, such as the ones I mentioned briefly above.

      What do I think of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive Movement? It’s a hybrid movement that brings mechanical and electronic watchmaking together. The mainspring powers the watch – just like in a conventional automatic watch, and the quartz crystals improve the accuracy of the movement.

      It’s an intriguing movement that provides the user with a level of accuracy unheard of in purely mechanical and automatic watches, but this level of precision is due to the quartz rather than any technical wizardry of the mechanical movement itself.

      The quartz improves the accuracy of the movement while the mainspring powers the watch. It truly is unique and impressive.

      I’d put Grand Seiko in the top 25-30 because this brand only became independent in 2017, produces primarily steel sports watches and steel divers watches, offers no high horology or movement complications that I’m aware of, doesn’t have the same resale value as the most respected brands, isn’t well known outside the world of watch enthusiasts, and relies on technology — GMT movements, tachymeters, and chronographs — that were essentially invented by other brands.

      Grand Seiko separated from Seiko to offer a Japanese alternative to Swiss brands such as Rolex, Omega, and Breitling. Grand Seiko isn’t a trailblazer; it simply builds on existing technology and improves it.

      Cheers!
      Alexander

      Reply ↓
3. Zachary Tomlinson January 2, 2023

   Wow, I had no idea that the materials used in a watch could help determine its overall value. My friend is thinking of buying a watch for his uncle to celebrate his retirement. I think he should consider finding a jeweler for this plan of his in the future.

   Reply ↓
   1. Alexander Post authorJanuary 3, 2023

      Welcome Zachary to swissdiverswatches.com!

      Yes, the materials (for both the movement and the case and bracelet) determine at least part of a wristwatch’s value, as do the manufacturing methods and the time and effort that go into making a luxury wristwatch. Supply and demand are another factor determining the price of a wristwatch.

      If your friend needs advice on what timepiece to purchase for his uncle, he’s more than welcome to chime in and ask me personally here at this blog.

      Cheers!
      Alexander

      Reply ↓
4. Ralph J Pearce May 2, 2021

   I can’t argue with any of your rankings; well maybe IWC should be a couple of clicks higher, but besides that, why is Audemars Piquet always in the “Holy Trinity”. I would include A. Lange & Sohne, due to their elegance and uniqueness or Jaeger LeCoultre due to their elegance, prominence and domination in horology in the “Holy Trinity” before, to my minds eye, the clunky styles and exaggerated pricing of Audemars.

   Reply ↓
   1. Alexander Post authorMay 3, 2021

      Welcome Ralph to swissdiverswatches.com!

      Personally, I think that Jaeger LeCoultre is on par with the “Holy Trinity” – Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet – especially considering the fact that JLC has highly exacting and strict quality controls in its factories, has made enormous contributions to watchmaking – not to mention the fact that JLC has provided the “Holy Trinity” with JLC in-house made movements in the past.

      A. Lange & Söhne too in my opinion, is absolutely on the same level as the “Holy Trinity” of watch brands.

      Much of the ranking is based on historical accomplishments and not necessarily solely on the brands’ current merits, but regardless if we are referring to historical achievements or current merits, Jaeger LeCoultre and A. Lange & Söhne are very much comparable to the “Holy Trinity”.

      But, for the sake of the ranking, all brands can’t make it to the top three list, and therefore we need to look at negligible differences that might make one brand slightly “better” than the other.

      Cheers!
      Alexander

      Reply ↓
5. John watchdig June 5, 2020

   What is your opinion on code1159 by AP?

   Reply ↓
   1. Alexander Post authorJune 6, 2020

      In my opinion, quite boring and uninspiring design. The Royal Oak which was released in 1972 looks a lot more iconic, legendary, different, radical and distinct, with a “personality” of its own if you will.

      Most likely, Code 1159 will fall short of replacing Royal Oak on Audemars Piguet’s royal throne. Audemars Piguet, for better or worse, is a “one model brand” which stands and falls with the Royal Oak Collection.
      I can’t see anyone honestly believing that Code 1159 will make history the way Royal Oak did in 1972.
      Audemars Piguet needs to think it over, return to the drawing board and conceive a new iconic and revolutionary concept watch that can either replace Royal Oak or complement it within the same brand.

      Cheers!
      Alexander

      Reply ↓
6. Theodore Da Silva April 17, 2020

   Yeah, luxury watches come with a bunch of cool features but you’ve probably noticed that they cost so much because of the name they carry. Watch enthusiasts love heritage but do you think this warrants such a price tag ?

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   1. Alexander Post authorApril 18, 2020

      Hello Theodore and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches!

      You asked a highly valid question, which requires a very thorough answer, so my response will be a rather long one, so please bear with me.

      You make partially a valid point, but claiming that luxury watches are expensive solely due to the name they carry isn’t entirely accurate. Do I personally think that all luxury brands and luxury watches warrant such a high price tag? No, not necessarily. Not categorically, but there could be a few valid criteria as to why some brands are more expensive than others.

      I’d say there are five (5) main reasons as to why some brands are more expensive than others:

      1. ) Expensive and precious materials that have been used, such as gold, platinum, jewels and diamonds.
      The usage of precious materials does explain, at least partially, why many Swiss luxury watches are so costly. Timepiece models within the same brand that use precious metals and materials are absolutely more costly than those using stainless steel. However most Swiss luxury watches rely on stainless steel, so the point of expensive and precious materials isn’t necessarily attributable to them. Only a minority of Swiss luxury watches use gold, platinum, jewels and diamonds as main materials for the case and the bracelet.

      2.) Higher production and labor costs – the time it takes to manufacture the timepiece is factored into the price.
      Switzerland is one of the wealthiest nations in the world and the labor force naturally expects to be paid accordingly, so their salaries are factored into the price.

      Many Japanese watches, by contrast have their production outsourced to South East Asia to minimize costs. All Japanese watches? No, but many of them are indeed outsourced to South East Asia.

      Another explanation would be highly stringent, demanding, and exacting quality controls in the factories, where watch manufacturers test various factors such as wear and tear, movement accuracy, shock resistance, water resistance, anti-magnetic properties. Testing quality watches and manufacturing every mechanical and aesthetic detail of the movement and the outer case to perfection (as far as humanly possible), with clear focus on attention to details, and flawless functions, isn’t cheap to say the least.

      Then you need to factor the time into the equation. True quality timepieces take several weeks, possibly months to manufacture, depending on the brand. That involves the cost of operating machines in the factories, carrying out quality controls, paying for raw materials and compensating the watchmakers themselves who assemble the watch movements.

      You also need to take into account that luxury brands such as Rolex, Omega, and Patek Philippe for example (there are examples of other brands as well), use quality materials in their movements, to ensure maximum wearability (moving mechanical parts cause friction and wear and tear inside the movement – cheaper parts wear out quicker and need quicker replacement),and anti-magnetic properties to protect the movement’s accuracy against magnetic fields that are found everywhere nowadays. All Swiss brands do not use the same materials in their movements and all mechanical and automatic movements aren’t manufactured in the same manner.

      Ordinary quartz watches aren’t as complicated and costly to produce. It doesn’t take the same skill, effort or time to manufacture a quartz watch as a mechanical or automatic watch.

      You might be tempted to ask:
      “Aren’t all Swiss luxury wristwatch brands manufactured according to the same principles, and aren’t all of them subject to the exact same quality controls in the factories?”
      No they aren’t – not even close.

      Rolex and IWC for example are two brands found in roughly the same price category, yet their approach to factory quality controls is very different. If you had to bet your money on a brand of watches that can truly stand the test of time, daily wear and tear, Rolex does win against IWC in this regard – also with movement accuracy, shock resistance and water resistance taken into consideration.

      3. ) The warranty service is factored into the premium price.
      Since automatic and mechanical watches, unlike quartz, consist of old fashioned technology, there are more things that can go wrong, and therefore the automatic and mechanical watches are more likely to incur an in-warranty service. The cost of the in-warranty service is thusly factored into the price of a premium watch. That of course has nothing to do with the inherent quality of the wristwatch itself, but there is a higher risk that something might go wrong with a mechanical or automatic movement than a quartz movement during the warranty period, and luxury watch manufacturers need to factor those costs into the equation to ensure they are profitable.

      4. ) Smaller quantities are produced.
      Since more time and effort are invested in inventing and conceiving (yes, Swiss luxury watches start out as concepts and prototypes), manufacturing, designing, decorating and crafting every conceivable detail of the movement and the case of the high end luxury timepieces, it means they are produced and manufactured in considerably smaller quantities, and in order for the watch manufacturers to generate revenues in their industry, they need to charge considerably higher prices per manufactured unit. Luxury watches are (usually) not an economy of scale.

      5) And yes – the fifth reason – brand name, brand recognition, supply and demand.
      The customer demand for a particular brand does in fact inflate the prices of a particular brand’s watches. This should be blamed on the customers – not the brands.

      For example a brand new Rolex Submariner, probably 5-10 years ago, could cost you $6000 – $7000, but due to the demand for these watches, it’s not unusual that a brand new Rolex Submariner would cost you $9000-$10.000 today. The same timepiece and the same model remind you, but customer demand does inflate prices, and customer demand has to do with customer perception of a brand – namely that a brand is considered to be more “desirable” than others. That desirability has of course nothing to do with the inherent production costs or quality or functions or reliability of the actual timepiece itself. Desirability is purely psychological.

      I know it was a rather long response, but I hope I have adequately answered your questions!

      Cheers!
      Alexander

      Reply ↓
7. Mike April 12, 2020

   Hello Alexander!

   Your ranking really impressed me. Excellent criteria, no doubt about it (althought I would change some places of these 15). But this is not most prestigeus and desirable watch-brand list (which could be very interesting however).

   About the “reborn brands” mentioned below. I think loosing independence of Omega or Zenith is quite different than “reborn” of Lange & Sohne. I wonder if we should say L&S is 1990 brand, even if they make as good watches as great trinity.

   Thanks for your great job!
   Best regards

   Mike

   Reply ↓
   1. Alexander Post authorApril 13, 2020

      Hello Mike and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches!

      Thank you for your kind comments. The ranking is naturally subjective and isn’t set in stone. Everyone will naturally have a different take on how to rank the brands and what criteria to use.

      Not sure though in what manner the list isn’t listing the most desirable brands – these are the most commonly known and desired luxury wristwatch brands on the market, in terms of market share, production, demand, fame, horology and craftsmanship. Now granted, some of these brands gained a position in the top 15 category mostly due to their fame and popularity, while others truly are elite watchmakers.

      You make indeed a valid point regarding the reborn brands and non-independent brands, but at the end of the day, these brands aren’t owned any longer by the founding families, have moved away from their original street addresses, their manufacturing is done entirely by commercial and industrial giants and conglomerates (for example, Omega, Blancpain, Breguet, Longines, Tissot, Certina, Glashütte Original are all fully and wholly owned and manufactured by Swatch Group, whereas brands such as IWC, Jaeger LeCoultre, Panerai, Cartier, A. Lange & Söhne, Piaget, and Vacheron Constantin, are fully owned and manufactured by Richemont Group) such as Swatch Group, LVMH, Richemont Group etc – so one could or should rightfully ask: “What remains of all these brands besides their names, logos and claims to their history?”

      Cheers!
      Alexander

      Reply ↓
8. vince November 21, 2019

   Hi Alexander

   Excellent article!
   With history / tale of the Brand being one of the most important factor for me in appreciating a brand, I was wandering how to evaluate “reborn” brands, or brands with major hiccups in their history. I m thinking of Zenith, which disappeared and was relaunched by Richmond from scratch (only the name remaining), or ALS (looking at history and legacy, Glashutte Original has probably more roots in ALS than ALS itself), or even Panerai, which was relocated to Swizerland, only to be reborn in Venice as Anonimo…

   Now throwing in the reputation, resale value, and the other criteria that you rightfully use, clearly Anonimo is no match for Panerai, or GO for ALS!

   Thanks!

   Reply ↓
   1. Alexander Post authorNovember 21, 2019

      Hi Vince, and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com!

      Many thanks for your praise. I appreciate it.
      You asked a valid question. Only, I need to correct you slightly on a small factual error. Zenith was purchased in 1999 by LVMH (Louis Vuitton/Moët Hennessy) – not Richemont Group.

      Well, there are a couple of reborn brands.
      You mentioned brands such as Zenith and Panerai. We could also make a reference to Breguet and Blancpain – both of them were purchased by Swatch Group a few decades ago, exist today solely due to the industrial and financial muscles of Swatch Group. It was a long time ago Breguet and Blancpain existed as truly independent brands and watch makers. Breguet and Blancpain, both of them highly prestigious luxury elite brands, specialized in handmade dress watches, and movement complications, exist today on life-support thanks to Swatch Group. Without Swatch Group, Blancpain and Breguet would most likely be non-existent today.

      Most Swiss brands have lost their independence, and only a few have retained them.

      Omega for example is owned by Swatch Group. It’s true that Omega didn’t go out of existence only to be reborn later on, like the previous examples. Instead, Omega has a long continous history dating all the way back to 1848. That’s true, but even these non-independent brands with a long continous unbroken history, are not necessarily owned, managed or administered by the founding families.

      So if most of today’s Swiss watch brands, the independents and non-independents, are no longer owned, managed or administered by their founding families or original owners, what then remains of them, if not their brand names, logos, street address (sometimes they have even moved away from their original address) and their supposed horological connection to the past?

      Very few brands such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Breguet and Breitling are truly independent and have a long continous unbroken history.

      Many other Swiss brands such as IWC, Jaeger LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin and Omega, might have a long continous unbroken history but may have lost their independence a long time ago. And others, such as Zenith, Panerai, Breguet and Blancpain, have both lost their independence, and their connection to their past since they temporarily ceased to exist.

      So this is essentially a non ending horological conversation going in circles. Where do we draw the line between a Swiss brand that can validly claim its past and a brand that cannot?

      By virtue of claiming their horological past, and maintaining their name and logo, I would consider Panerai, Zenith, Breguet and Blancpain to be a continuation of their original brands and namesakes.
      I would still evaluate the “reborn” brands based on their history and horological past.

      Cheers
      Alexander

      Reply ↓
9. DEWAN September 17, 2019

   Hi Alexander,

   Thanks for such a comprehensive well rounded analysis, a very insightful read indeed! And even more so with the detailed responses you gave to the queries in the comments section!

   In one of the comment threads you listed Ulysse Narding as your probable 16th pick. Would really appreciate if you could provide your assessment based on your 14 ranking criteria.

   I am contemplating between the Zenith Captain 51.2112.400/01.C498 , IWC protofino IW391027 and UN dual time 3343-126-92 for my next purchase. Wanted your views on the watches and which would you pick ?

   Cheers!
   DEWAN

   Reply ↓
   1. Alexander Post authorSeptember 17, 2019

      Hi Dewan and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com!

      I definitely think Ulysse Nardin should be ranked in the top 16-20 category, perhaps even as nr 16 on the ranking list, primarily due to their old history dating all the way back to 1846, and the fact that Ulysse Nardin has been awarded a staggering 4000 prizes for their innovations and technological developments, offers a 5-year warranty, and a rather unique and different design that sets this brand apart from most other brands

      The “downsides” would be lack of global fame and lack of recognition amongst most people, average resale value, limited portfolio of watches to choose from, and lack of independence, since it’s owned by Kering Group.

      But there’s nothing wrong with the actual physical timepieces. Great watches of excellent design and technology.

      Out of the timepieces you listed I would wear none of them, because I personally wear primarily sports steel watches. I wear divers watches. The whole website is dedicated to Swiss Made divers watches.

      But, you picked beautiful dress watches from elite brands, so you can’t really go wrong with any of them, regardless if you pick Zenith, IWC or Ulysse Nardin. The primary question you need to ask yourself is why you want the watch in the first place and what functions, technology, features, aesthetics the timepiece in question is supposed to provide you with. The rest is really up to you and your personal taste and preference.

      I say, pick the timepiece that you love the most, regardless what other people think.

      Cheers!
      Alexander

      Reply ↓
10. Reynold August 15, 2019

    Hi, i love how you ranked them and definitely open my minds and gather more informations about these luxury swiss brands. These points (1-14) are really what a consumer should think of when choosing which brands fit our own criteria / priority.

    However, there’s one that kinda confused me, its build quality. May i know what build quality means to you, or the criteria that decide an excellent or mediocre build quality? I was wondering because i thought IWC offers a very high build quality and finishing, even higher than omega / rolex

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorAugust 15, 2019

       Hello Reynold and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.

       The build quality in this context is referring to the outer external feel of the case, the crown and the bracelet – i.e. sturdiness and robustness – the property of being strong in constitution.

       I’ve held many timepieces in my hands from many respectable Swiss luxury watch brands, and what struck me was the flimsy “feel” of the bezels, bracelets, clasps and screw down crowns of many competitors to Rolex. Rolex and Omega, but primarily Rolex, stands out from the crowd of being built like a tank. Modern Rolex bracelets (unlike Breitling, Omega, TAG Heuer, Longines, Maurice Lacroix, Tissot, Certina, Alpina, IWC and many others) do not rattle, have very solidly built clasps, sturdy crowns, and tactile and very smooth bezels – unlike most of Rolex’s competitors.

       Most IWC watches from my experience have a finishing equivalent to Rolex and Omega, but the finishing may be better on the haute horlogerie (higher watchmaking) timepieces by IWC.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
11. Stefan June 5, 2019

    Hello and thank you for this article.

    I am kind of new in this hobbie and I was wondering where would Grand Seiko be ranked in term of quality ? As I understood their movements are top notch, the finition also and made by hand, and every part are manufactured in house.

    Thank you

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorJune 5, 2019

       Hello Stefan and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.

       Grand Seiko is an excellent and accurate movement which might rival the accuracy of many of the most accurate Swiss automatic movements available on the market today. Very few brands have movements that tick at 36.000 vibrations per hour. Swiss luxury brand Zenith, has the Zenith El Primero in-house automatic movement, whereas Japanese Seiko has the Grand Seiko movement.

       Indeed the Grand Seiko movement is in-house made with very high manufacturing standards and attention to detail, so I think it’s safe to say that Grand Seiko might in fact rival many of the movements made by Rolex, Omega and Breitling (in terms of accuracy), just to mention a few examples.

       Grand Seiko is today a separate brand, but nonetheless I think it probably should rank in the top 25-30 brands.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
       1. Fai July 22, 2019

          Thank you for sharing. What do you think of the zenith? Is the pilot series worth buying?(^ ^)

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          1. Alexander Post authorJuly 23, 2019

             Hello Fai and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.

             Zenith in my article is ranked as nr 10 on the ranking list, and Zenith is indeed an elite brand, so regardless of which watch you pick within the Zenith brand, you’ll get quality. Nothing wrong with Zenith Pilot watches. They are relatively affordable as well.

             Cheers
             Alexander

             Reply ↓
12. Prakash Gopwani April 13, 2019

    Hello Alexander. Very good article. You seem to have addressed all the points to be considered while ranking the brands. Need your opinion and suggestion on my first luxury watch. I need to choose between the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean(Black dial 43.5mm case with steel bracelet) and the Breitling Superocean Heritage 2(black dial with gold lining on the case) with 44m Milanese bracelet).
    Kindly help me make the choice while considering the criteria below.
    I need a watch which :
    1)Goes well with formal and casual attires
    2)Belongs to a reputed and prestigious brand
    3)Is reliable
    4)Has the potential to last a lifetime
    5)Looks classy

    Keen to hear what you have to suggest.

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorApril 13, 2019

       Hello Prakash, a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com, and thanks for your kind words!

       I think both models you suggested – Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 43.5mm, and Breitling Superocean Heritage II, would fit the criteria you listed.

       Both models – Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean (43.5mm), and Breitling Superocean Heritage II are very versatile – they can both in my opinion, be used for formal and casual attire. The gold lining on the case on the Superocean II makes it more “formal” though than the Planet Ocean, but like I said – both are very versatile.

       Both Omega and Breitling are reputed, prestigious, legendary and respected brands – both manufacturers will offer you premium quality watches. As far as design is concerned, Omega offers you more choices, but both brands rely to a very large degree on in-house made movements and dependable calibers.

       Both brands are reliable and keep excellent time, but rumors online say that in general Omega’s divers watches are more reliable than Breitling – reliable in the sense that you can trust that Omega watches won’t leak any water after being immersed in the ocean.

       If properly serviced, both models could potentially last a lifetime – it also depends on your lifestyle and on what you’re using the watch for.

       Both models in my opinion look classy and elegant, but my personal opinion on aesthetics is not really a reliable yardstick for determining which watch is “right” for you.

       Here is my take on it:

       If you want a robust divers watch with a massive water resistance capacity and very accurate movement, go with the Omega Planet Ocean. The higher case profile (thicker case) makes it less of a dress watch, but still a pretty “dressy looking” divers watch. The Omega Planet Ocean would be my pick if I wanted an elegant looking divers watch and tool watch.

       If you’re looking for a timeless classic design which is more “dressy”, go for the Breitling Superocean Heritage II.

       And both models are roughly the same price range, so no big difference there.

       There is no “right” and “wrong” here. You simply need to find the particular model that fits your needs the best.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
       1. Prakash Gopwani April 24, 2019

          Thank you so much Alexander. One more question I’d like to ask.
          This is going to be my first luxury timepiece.
          From your input, I’ve come to the conclusion that I need a dressier watch and I’m also considering a Rolex Datejust 41(Two Tone) if I’m able to increase my budget.

          Do you think I should go for a Breitling as my first luxury watch or should I just wait for a more esteemed and expensive Rolex?

          Any other watches which you’d like to suggest would also be helpful. Not a fan of rubber and leather bracelets.

          Reply ↓
          1. Alexander Post authorApril 24, 2019

             Hello again Prakash.

             Which watch do you like the most? If you prefer the Rolex Datejust 41 Two Tone, then wait a while until you have the budget for purchasing it. If the Breitling is sufficient for your needs you can pull the trigger and make your purchase earlier.

             Other alternatives I can recommend you would be Longines HydroConquest, Tudor Pelagos and Tudor Heritage Black Bay.

             Cheers
             Alexander

             Reply ↓
             1. Prakash Gopwani April 25, 2019

                Thanks again mate.
          2. Alexander Post authorApril 25, 2019

             You’re welcome!

             Reply ↓
13. Louis May 31, 2018

    Hello, Alexander. Thanks for sharing the wonderful article “Top 15 Luxury Watch Brands Ranking” with us.

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorMay 31, 2018

       You’re most welcome Louis!

       Reply ↓
       1. Fernando Torres January 1, 2019

          Hello and CONGRATULATIONS on this article! I hope it is not to late for my post/question. Ok, ¡I am surprise in not having Girard Perregaux in your list! ¿Any thoughts? Thanks, and again congratulations on this excellente guide.
          Fernando

          Reply ↓
          1. Alexander Post authorJanuary 2, 2019

             Hello Fernando and thank you for your kind words.
             Girard Perregaux is indeed and elite brand with a history dating back to 1791 and with 100 patents under its belt. The reason the brand doesn’t end up on my subjective top 15 list, is due to its lack of fame and reputation.

             Girard Perregaux is arguably a “better” brand in terms of craftsmanship than say Breitling, Hublot, Cartier and Panerai, but its lack of fame means it maybe should be ranked slightly lower – possibly amongst the top 16-20 brands.

             Cheers
             Alexander

             Reply ↓
14. Peter May 26, 2018

    Thanks for creating a great blog! By far the best article ever on luxury watches!

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorMay 26, 2018

       You’re most welcome Peter. And thank you for your kind words.

       Reply ↓
15. Nick May 20, 2018

    Hello Alexander,

    This is a great blog, and your article on the top 15 luxury watch brands is one of the best rankings I’ve ever read. My only objection is how you rank Rolex vs Panerai.

    Shouldn’t Panerai be ranked well above Rolex?
    Here are my reasons:
    a) Panerai is an older brand.
    b) Panerai is an unusual brand. Rolex is much more commonly seen.
    c) And aren’t Panerais usually more expensive than the average Rolex?

    Thanks
    Nick

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorMay 20, 2018

       Hello Nick and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com!
       I greatly appreciate that you enjoy my blog.

       Regarding the ranking: naturally the ranking is subjective and isn’t set in stone, but if the ranking should be meaningful beyond emotional attachment to a brand, then some form of ranking requirements ought to be used.

       I’ll answer your questions in the order you asked them:

       A) Indeed Panerai is older than Rolex. Panerai was born in Florence Italy in 1860, and Rolex was born in London, United Kingdom in 1905.

       However: Rolex has had a much larger impact on technology, innovation, horological inventions than Panerai. Rolex’s name recognition, impact on society and culture and resale value, are second to none. Panerai despite being an older brand, relied on Rolex movements in the early 20th century, whereas Rolex to a large extent relied on their very own movements. Rolex is known all over the world, has been an unmatched status symbol since the 1950s and the 1960s, and almost every single wristwatch on this planet contains at least one or even two or three horological inventions created by Rolex (water resistant case, extremely accurate movements, date indicator, screw down crown for water resistance, GMT functions etc).

       Panerai is barely known outside the community of watch enthusiasts and connoisseurs. Panerai has a poor or a mediocre resale value. Panerai has hardly had any impact on horological inventions or technology and Panerai is primarily famous for having been the Royal Italian navy’s official supplier of military wristwatches in the early and mid 20th century. Panerai’s status is its historical connection to the Italian navy of the past, and that they probably made the first water resistant military watch, that they designed the particular crown protector unique to Panerai and of course Panerai’s distinct unmistakable design.

       Panerai is older than Rolex, but Rolex has achieved and accomplished so much more than Panerai.

       B) Panerai is a very unique brand, but considering its lack of innovations, lack of horological inventions, minimal impact on watchmaking, and lack of impact on modern culture and modern society and minimal accomplishments compared to Rolex, I wouldn’t place Panerai’s uniqueness over Rolex’s excellence. The fact that Rolex watches are more commonly seen on peoples’ wrists doesn’t detract from Rolex’s impact on watchmaking.

       Luxury watches and watchmaking wouldn’t be the same without Rolex. Rolex has set its indelible mark on the world of horology. In terms of excellence and uniqueness, brands that should in my opinion, be ranked above Rolex are Jaeger LeCoultre, A Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe.
       In terms of innovation, Breguet in this particular respect, should be ranked above Rolex.
       In terms of history, the only brand which I believe has the honor of winning the title “the most impressive history” would be Omega.

       C) The price range: Depends on the model but their average price ranges are fully comparable and about the same.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
16. Gary from Calabasas April 17, 2018

    Alexander, I am new to your website and blog ((having seen it for the first time today). I have never posted a comment to any blog before so I am a rookie to all this. However, I am not a rookie to fine watches having been a collector for about 15 years now. I must tell you I am very impressed with your Top 15 ranking. I have seen many other Top 10 or 20 rankings and have always been dismayed as to how uninformed the persons posting the rankings were (even considering such “Top” rankings are of course very subjective) . I love your criteria, the logic/explanations you provide and also your ability to “defend” questions or challenges to the order of your rankings. Very well done! I am fortunate to own watches in 9 of your top 10 (no Blancpains yet) and 11 of 15 overall (unlikely to ever own all 15 since I have yet to see a Hublot or Panerai that interests me). I actually cannot dispute or challenge the order of your rankings — all is well supported and reasonable. The only disconnect that I have in my personal preferences is I consider Lange even more highly. Though I understand that placing them higher than #4 would be sacrilege to the “Holy Trinity”, I personally only regard Patek more highly. Lange continues to make some of the most beautiful watches (e.g., the Richard Lange Tourbillon Pour le Merite which has nearly 1,000 parts), the most technologically impressive pieces (the Double Split and the recently announced Triple Split chronos, neither of which any other manufacturer has been able to remotely approach) and the most interesting/innovative offerings (e.g.,the Zeitwerk Decimal Strike — which also comes in the most unique color, “Honey Gold”, to boot). I do not know if true or not, but 3-4 years ago I heard that Thierry Stern, CEO of Patek, was asked what kept him awake at night, and he supposedly replied “Lange”. Again, Alexander, great job with your rankings and your website. I look forward to being a frequent visitor (and student!).

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorApril 17, 2018

       Hello Gary and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com!
       I’m very glad to hear that you enjoy my blog. The doors are always open for you.

       You’re absolutely correct: the ranking is certainly subjective, although there are some factual aspects of the watch brands and watch manufacturers that make a ranking slightly more “objective” beyond subjectivity and emotional attachment to a brand.

       A Lange & Söhne is an elite brand, fully comparable to the “Holy Trinity”.
       The reason I’d rank A Lange & Söhne one notch below the “Holy Trinity” (i.e. Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet) is due to the conventional and traditional ranking, which has existed for a long and extended period of time. Out of respect for reviewers before me, who have existed within the luxury watch blog community long before I entered the stage, I’ve decided to maintain the traditional ranking with the “Holy Trinity” at the top and A Lange & Söhne slightly below.

       I’ve also taken into consideration that A Lange & Söhne is no longer an independent brand – it’s wholly owned by Richemont Group, and it was the brand of IWC Schaffhausen that helped to revive the A Lange & Söhne brand.

       The actual physical watches produced by A Lange & Söhne are most likely entirely equal to the “Holy Trinity”, in terms of craftsmanship and horology, but the basis of my ranking is not merely the actual physical machine and mechanical instrument that graces your wrist, but also the company and the brand behind it.

       Thank you for your kind words Gary. I appreciate it.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
17. Watch Solutions February 12, 2018

    thanks for the lovely information.

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorFebruary 12, 2018

       You’re most welcome!

       Reply ↓
18. Dmitriy January 12, 2018

    Hi Alexander

    Fom Rolex Daytona and Sky Sweller ( both SS ) what is your choise and why.

    Thanks in advance

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorJanuary 12, 2018

       Hi Dmitriy and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com!

       Aesthetically, I like both Rolex Daytona and Rolex Sky Dweller, but since I’m a divers watch enthusiast, I’d either pick the Rolex Submariner or the Rolex Sea Dweller. That’s my preference.

       If the watch in question (Rolex Daytona or Rolex Sky Dweller) is supposed to be a gift for someone else, I’d recommend you to first ask the person in question what’s his/her preference in watches as far as style, aesthetics and functions are concerned.

       If you purchase the watch for yourself, you need to ask yourself what you need and want in a watch – there is no “right” or “wrong” answer.

       When deciding on a watch Dmitriy you need to take these questions into consideration:

       1) Do I like the the aesthetics of the timepiece?
       2) Do I need the functions that the watch has to offer?
       3) Do I intend to keep the watch and actually use it, or will it sit on top of a chest of drawers and collect dust?
       4) Do I love the watch, and does it appeal to my feelings?

       The Rolex Daytona is equipped with a chronograph, a tachymetric scale, a separate second hand and a perpetual calendar.

       The Rolex Sky Dweller is equipped with a 24 hour indicator, a perpetual calendar and a dual time zone.

       The Rolex Daytona and Rolex Sky Dweller both overlap each other partially as far as functions are concerned, but there are some key differences between them.

       Basically, you need to ask yourself which of these two watches appeals to you the most aesthetically and technically speaking.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
19. DubdubWatch November 26, 2017

    Hello, Alexander

    This is a great list you’ve assembled with excellent information. I definitely agree with Patek Phillipe being number one. I’m 23 and have become a bit obsessed with watches, and plan on making watch collecting a life-long hobby. I’m very attracted to sleek, sporty chronographic watches, and plan on purchasing one within the next 3-6 months. Right now, I am wearing a somewhat older chronographic Tag Heuer that my father bought several years ago and has worn. I’m quite attracted to the HEUER HERITAGE Calibre Heuer 02, and it’s within my price range, but is it worth it to spend 5k+ on a TAG when it isn’t a top 15 brand? If you had to estimate, where would you rank TAG? Top 20? Top 25? Other watches I quite like are the Rolex Daytona – but it’s too pricey, and plan on getting it several years from now – and the Ingenieur Chronograph (IW380802), which is also a bit out of my price range. I’ve looked at the Moonwatch Professional Chronograph, which is cheaper, but it’s too similar to the Daytona, which I far prefer. I would also prefer a blue dial. I really like the Breitling Superocean Héritage Chronographe 46. Do you have any suggestions (sleek chronographs under 6.5K) – and thoughts on the TAG?

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorNovember 27, 2017

       Hello Dubdubwatch and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.

       The ranking itself is subjective and so are the criteria – the ranking isn’t set in stone and is certainly no law of nature, which I also took time to elaborate on in the article above.

       Personally I wouldn’t rank TAG Heuer in the top 15 category, but maybe in the top 20-25 category. My personal opinion (and criteria) doesn’t necessarily make it “true” in an objective sense.

       TAG Heuer is an excellent brand – one of the world’s most respected luxury watch brands and if your heart desires it, then you should buy yourself a timepiece belonging to this respected brand.

       All the models which you mentioned are highly accurate, well built performance machines, and you’ve made a good decision regardless of which one you decide on.

       Here is my advice: buy only the timepiece in question if you love it, and intend to wear it and use it on a daily basis, and if you intend to keep it for a considerable amount of time. If you know in your heart that your favorite watch belongs to a premium brand, but you find it too expensive, set aside an x or y percent of your monthly salary, until you have set aside the sufficent amount to purchase the watch of your dreams.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
20. Jay Hong October 24, 2017

    Dear Alexander,

    As a watch enthusiast, your article been the best I’ve read. Very fair assessment in selecting the ranking criteria, and accordingly, listed the brands. Just beginning my collection (targeting collection of 10 pieces), I would like you to access what I’ve own and targets, and if possible, recommend the blanks below,

    1. Holy Grail/target: Patek Philippe?
    2. Own: AP Royal Oak Chronograph Automatic 18k Rose Gold
    3. ?
    4. Own: Rolex Datejust
    5. Target: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms
    6. Own: Chopard Mille Miglia
    7. ?
    8. ?
    9. Own: Seiko SKX007K
    10. Own: Seiko SNK809K

    The Royal Oak had been wedding present, thanks to mother-in-law. Datejust (rose gold) is the newest purchase, pre-owned. Mille Miglia is a present from parents for entering college, and Seikos are obviously by bang-for-buck watches, which I wear on daily basis.

    Only target as of now is 38mm Fifty Fathoms, which I have not seen in person. Would greatly appreciate your constructive suggestion in my growing interest and passion on watch collection and horology.

    Looking forward to your continued article/blog on watches. Thanks.

    Rgds- Jay

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorOctober 24, 2017

       Dear Jay – a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com!

       Collecting watches is fun indeed, but there really is no rule on how one “should” collect timepieces and what timepieces “ought” to be included in one’s collection to make it “perfect” and “complete”.

       When buying watches and collecting them, what it really boils down to is these questions:
       1) Why do I want a watch to begin with?
       2) Why do I collect watches to begin with?
       3) What technical features am I looking for in my watches?
       4) What watches appeal to my feelings aesthetically speaking?
       5) Will I actually use these watches or will they just sit on the chest of drawers and collect dust?
       6) Can I afford these watches and do I want to spend that kind of money on them?

       Technical functions and aesthetics – only you can decide what watch or timepiece is right for you – regardless of brand, prestige or price range.

       What matters the most is that you love the watch with all your heart. If you love your watch, you’ll have no regrets buying it, owning it and wearing it.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
       1. Jay Hong October 25, 2017

          Many thanks for your prompt reply Alexander.
          Collecting watches to me honestly got to do with aesthetics, and robustness of technical function of the movement doesn’t matter tons if its dependable and respected in watch community.

          1) Why do I want a watch to begin with?
          Simple. I wear them everyday, and they are aesthetically pleasing. Self-satisfaction.

          2) Why do I collect watches to begin with?
          Time to give a good thought on this.. I want to pass on my personal belonging to my son. Son gifted to my family coming March. Sharing what I love that can be appreciated in the future.. I cannot think of any other materialistic product than watches.

          3) What technical features am I looking for in my watches?
          As noted above, I don’t really care if its dependable and robust, proven by many.

          4) What watches appeal to my feelings aesthetically speaking?
          I can handle variaty in style. But maybe more sports than dress.. versatile watch is preferred.

          5) Will I actually use these watches or will they just sit on the chest of drawers and collect dust?
          Absoutely NO to the chest and dust. Luckily, I have good enough work-life balance to enjoy high-end piece like AP, and bang-for-buck Seikos during my overseas biz trip. Giving as much as and regular wrist time to all my collection is a concisous goal I’ve got.

          6) Can I afford these watches and do I want to spend that kind of money on them?
          High end pieces, of course, will need time and effort. Not the richest person who can afford all at once. Been seeing many Youtube videos and reading articles related to watches and horology, so I want to give good time in choosing my option (not intended to flip), and collect money for the target watch which something I become to like. Patek is a dream watch, which I put on top as a motivation.. which may never be happening.

          Thanks again for your reply.

          Rgds- Jay Hong

          Reply ↓
          1. Alexander Post authorOctober 25, 2017

             You’re most welcome Jay!

             Reply ↓
21. Dmitriy October 19, 2017

    Hi, Alexander
    As I’ve as dress watches Patek Philippe ref.5109 and as sport watches Breguet Marine ref.5817, I’m looking for daily watches. From listed below what could be your choice and why
    JLC Reverso Classic Large Duo
    Rolex DJII
    Blancpain Villeret 40 manual
    VC Overseas

    What is you opinion about VC Patrimony 81180, I know this is dress watches, but my concern about reliability and
    resale value on second hand market

    Thanks in advance
    Dmitriy

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorOctober 19, 2017

       Hi Dmitriy and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.

       Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Classic Large Duo, and Blancpain Villeret 40 Manual, are dress watches, while Rolex DJII (Rolex Datejust II) and Vacheron Constantin Overseas are metal sports watches, so they are basically very different in styles and aesthetics.

       If you’re looking for more sturdy and robust quality/luxury watches for daily wear, I’d definitely pick either Rolex Datejust II or Vacheron Constantin Overseas. For pure build quality and robustness and ruggedness, I’d pick Rolex Datejust II. Despite being branded as a luxury brand, Rolex watches are built for daily wear.

       Vacheron Constantin Patrimony is one of VCs most respected collections. If by “reliability” you are referring to movement accuracy, that shouldn’t unduly concern you since Vacheron Constantin makes accurate movements.

       As far as resale value is concerned, it’s basically Rolex and Patek Philippe that are unmatched in the resale value market, but if I were you, I wouldn’t purchase a watch for the sake of “investment” but rather regard it as a family heirloom that you’ll wear an entire lifetime that can be handed down to the next generation.

       Just like cars, luxury watches lose value over time, so therefore they aren’t ideal for investment. If investments interest you, then I’d recommend real estate, stocks and shares.
       Buy a watch because you love it and because you intend to wear it, and forget altogether about investments and resale value.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
22. Rajat Sharma August 11, 2017

    Best blog online shopping for men wrist watch thanks for sharing with us

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorAugust 11, 2017

       Glad you like it!

       Reply ↓
23. Dennis May 24, 2017

    Hi Alexander,

    A really nice article and it gave me a lot of advice.

    I am going to get my first watch in my life for myself but struggling between a Rolex GMT or Submariner.

    Maybe your advice could help me out a bit.

    Thanks for your time.

    PS I really enjoy reading your article.

    Cheers,

    Dennis

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorMay 24, 2017

       Hi Dennis and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.

       Thank you for your kind words. I appreciate it.

       Comparing the Rolex GMT Master to the Rolex Submariner hinges on three questions:

       1) Do you need the Submariner’s 300 m/1000 feet water resistance, or is the 100 m water resistance of the GMT Master sufficient?

       2) Do you need a time indicator for a 2nd time zone?

       3) Do you think it’s aesthetically speaking more pleasing to the eye to have a more crowded dial (GMT Master) or a more minimalistic/clean dial (Submariner)?

       Putting these questions aside, it’s the same brand and manufacturer, they use the same steel grade (904 L stainless steel), their movements are keeping pretty much the same level of accuracy and the build quality is the same of both timepieces.

       I hope this helps.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
24. Andy May 6, 2017

    Hello Alexander,

    I am curious to read about your opinion on NOMOS Glashutte, especially since in the past few years, they have developed their own in-house escapement (my apologies if someone already asked you this question on this blog).

    Hypothetically, if you were to further add more brands onto your list, at what place would you put NOMOS? And if you don’t mind, can you make a list to fit your 14 criteria for NOMOS, i’m curious to learn more about this brand since they are also based in the same town as Lange & Sohne (I assume there’s certain standard to follow in the footstep of Lange).

    Thanks in advance for your time and sharing your opinion.

    Best regards.

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorMay 7, 2017

       Hello Andy and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.

       NOMOS Glashütte is a very new brand which was established in January 1990, specialized in ultra thin dress watches with in-house made movements made according to the very exacting, strict and stringent regulations and standards of the Glashütte wristwatch industry – Germany’s equivalent to Switzerland’s Geneva.

       According to the Glashütte’s wristwatch manufacturing standards and regulations, at least 50% of each individual movement needs to be in-house made, which NOMOS Glashütte exceeds by far since 95% of each movement is built in-house by NOMOS Glashütte.

       This is a very small, peripheral niche brand, very new with hardly any history and with a minimal impact on the luxury wristwatch industry, hardly any presence on the commercial market, and is known by almost noone outside of the wristwatch community.

       To my knowledge NOMOS makes excellent quality timepieces but due to their lack of fame, short history, minimal impact on the the watchmaking industry and minimal impact on watchmaking history, extremely limited production and poor name recognition, I’d rank it among say the top 20-40.

       The original Glashütte on the other hand is a completely different story. This brand probably deserves to be ranked among say the top 16-30.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
25. Rayya April 23, 2017

    Hey Alexander,

    I would like your thoughts on Baume et Mercier vs. Raymond Weil vs. Longines.
    My price range is about 2500$

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorApril 24, 2017

       Hello Rayya and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com

       All three brands are Swiss, all three rely on and use either ETA movements or Valjoux movements, and all three to my knowledge rely on 316L stainless steel.

       As far as build quality and the movements’ time keeping accuracy are concerned, I see no major difference between Baume & Mercier, Raymond Weil and Longines.

       The rest is aesthetics, design and personal preference, and only you can know for certain what you should purchase. There is no right and wrong here. It’s simply a matter of personal taste.
       Trust your own instincts Rayya.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
26. Eli April 23, 2017

    Hello, Alexander!
    I love this article. How enlightening it is! And I’m really sorry to bother you with my problem, but since you know a great deal about luxury watches, I have to try.. Could you please find men’s wrist watches for me that satisfy conditions below?

    1. I’d like to wear them everyday, which means ‘casual’ for me.
    2. non-metallic bracelet
    3. simple but not boring unlike, with respect, Patrimony or Calatrava, yes, they are dress watches.
    4. price range: 8k – 20k dollars

    I hope you could suggest as many watches as possible. Thank you.

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorApril 23, 2017

       Hello Eli and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.

       And thank you for your kind words.

       I’m not sure which “style” you’re looking for, aesthetically speaking, but you could try (1) Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore with a leather strap.

       You could potentially go with (2) Patek Philippe Nautilus on a leather strap. You could also opt for a (3) Patek Philippe Aquanaut on a rubber strap.

       Another alternative would be to purchase a (4) Rolex Submariner in stainless steel, remove the metal bracelet and replace it with a NATO strap or a Rolex made rubber strap.

       An additional alternative would be to purchase a (5) Rolex Sea Dweller 4000, and just like in the previous example above, replace the metal bracelet with either a NATO strap or a Rolex made rubber strap.

       Hope this helps.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
27. Antonio April 2, 2017

    Hello Alexander!
    I’ve been following your blog for a considerable time now and your ranking of the top luxury watch brands is the very best that I’ve come across so far. I agree with you on most of the ranking except Panerai and Omega. Don’t you think that Panerai should be ranked higher than Omega due to the premium prices that Panerai charges their customers?

    Antonio

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorApril 2, 2017

       Hello Antonio and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.

       And many thanks to your kind comments. I appreciate it.

       Appearances might deceive people.

       The marketing and the premium prices might tempt people to believe, that the collective commercialized “image” of a particular brand would automatically imply that the product in question is a premium quality product.

       It’s not the actual price tag on a luxury wristwatch that determines its excellence but rather the inherent mechanical, technical features and qualities of the watch, such as the accuracy of the movement, power reserve, amount of jewels, shock resistance, resistance to magnetism, water resistance, and practical user friendly functions, that make life a lot easier for the bearer of the watch.

       We can of course also refer to quality controls and quality manufacturing criteria in the factories, innovation, and impact on watch making history, and impact on general history, and impact on popular culture, and within all, or at least within almost all of these fields, Omega outperforms Panerai by a large margin.

       There is no comparison between Omega and Panerai.
       Omega is considerably more affordable but offers you a lot more for the money you pay, and considering the mediocre nature of Panerai I fail to see why their price tags can be justified.

       Simply put: Panerai is marketing and image, Omega is quality and reliability.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
28. Tony March 31, 2017

    This is a great list…probably the best I’ve found on the web so good job!

    I agree with all except the last 3:

    Cartier – more of a fashion company and therefore more of a fashion watch in my opinion
    Panerai – decent brand but also a bit of a fashion watch and doesn’t have a long history nor are they known for their movements.
    Hublot – honestly I think this brand is a joke. They have barely been around, copied AP’s style, and just rely on heavy marketing.

    Would love to get your thoughts on those and also what would your next 5 be?

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorMarch 31, 2017

       Hello Tony and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.

       Cartier – I agree. This brand is famous largely due to marketing, and there really isn’t anything special with regards to their movements, their technology or their impact on watchmaking. However due to the brand’s fame and it’s prevalence on the commercial market, I think Cartier deserves to be ranked among the top 15.

       Panerai – I both agree and disagree. Panerai’s history is old and dates back to 1860 in Florence, Italy. It’s older than Rolex for example. Panerai’s impact on watchmaking has been indeed minimal, their movements are to a large extent generic ETA movements from Swatch Group, which Panerai for obvious reasons, cannot take credit for, and their in-house made movements are decent but definitely not earth-shattering.
       Panerai, I believe deserves to be ranked among the top 15 due to its long history, its unique design, its popularity amongst Hollywood action movie heroes, and the brand’s historical connection to the Italian navy of the early and mid 20th century.

       Hublot – I largely agree. It’s a young and immature brand that has profiled itself mainly through its extreme designs and unorthodox materials. Hublot is basically known for one thing only: its design. They quite recently started making their own in-house movements, but Hublot needs time to prove itself as a brand. Due to its popularity, I think it deserves to be ranked among the top 15.

       The next 5 in my mind would probably be Piaget, Ulysse Nardin, Chopard, Richard Mille and Roger Dubuis.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
29. Sean February 13, 2017

    Hi there,
    If I am buying a used watch and also considering a resale later, should I go for Blancpain 50 fathoms or Rolex submariner?
    Thank you!

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorFebruary 13, 2017

       Hello Sean and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.

       They both have a good resale value although the Rolex Submariner is more famous, has a larger fan club, and is considerably more popular and can be resold anywhere on the planet at a good price.

       It would be a lot easier to resell the Submariner than the 50 Fathoms, due to the market’s demand for this timepiece. The Rolex Submariner would typically appeal to a much larger contingent of customers, while the 50 Fathoms is more of a “niche watch” which appeals primarily to connoisseurs.

       My recommendation to you however, is that you should buy a watch because you love it and you intend to keep it, and not merely because a timepiece has a good resale value. If you know deep down in your heart that you have some doubts about the timepiece – any timepice – don’t buy it.

       Only buy a timepiece if you are absolutely smitten with love for it.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
30. Deniz January 23, 2017

    Hi Alexander and thank you for a very informative post, I truly enjoyed reading it.

    One question regarding world timers…
    I’m about to buy one and trying to make a decision between “Lange 1 Time Zone” and Patek worldtimer 5230G-001. How would you compare these two and what would be your pick?

    Many thanks once again.

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorJanuary 24, 2017

       Hello Deniz and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.

       Both watches belong to, and are examples of, premium luxury elite watchmakers – Patek Philippe and A Lange & Söhne. Regardless of which watch you decide on, you have still picked excellent handmade dresswatches, made in the old Swiss and German traditions.

       Both watches will, if properly serviced, serve you well an entire lifetime. Definitely the epitome of Swiss and German luxury artisanship. However, these timepieces are quite fragile, since dress watches, and especially those equipped with movement complications, tend to be very fragile. They are pieces of art but may not necessarily be optimal for everyday use. If you on the other have a desk job, then this won’t be a problem.

       But nonetheless, expensive handmade dresswatches of that nature require extra care.

       In order for me to answer your question, let me ask you a counter-question: what about these two timepieces appeals to your heart? What made you decide on these two timepieces?

       Essentially you need to ask yourself three questions:

       1) Which timepiece truly appeals to my feelings?
       2) What do I need in and expect from a timepiece?
       3) Will I wear the timepiece every day or almost every single day?

       If you know the answer to all three questions, then you’ll know which timepiece you should decide on.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
       1. Deniz January 24, 2017

          Thank you for your reply Alexander,
          Both watches are beautiful with no doubt. But they still offer a bit of different styles and functions.

          In my opinion, Patek is much smaller and looks a bit more of a classic dresswatch while Lange looks a bit more contemporary because of its size, both the thickness and the dial.
          Lange has the date but no date Patek. But all timezones are readable at one look on Patek while only two time zones are visible at one look on Lange. Also Patek is self winding, while Lange is all manual.

          I think I like Lange more, because of its quite extra ordinary design with its decentered dials. It appeals the feelings for sure.
          When it comes to need and expectations, I think Patek is better due to all timezones readable but no deal breaker.
          And I will wear it probably 1/3 – 1/2 of the time.

          So since you confirm the quality and craftsmanship of both watches, and out of your questions, I think there’s nothing to worry about and go for Lange this time 🙂

          My next question would be regarding the prices globally.
          Is it really true that i.e Dubai offers better prices than other countries? Is it really worth traveling to Hong Kong, US or Middle East for a premium watch or should we just trust the authorised dealer that they will give us the best price available possible globally? (I’m thinking all prices duty free)

          Many thanks once again, and keep up the good work. What you do is really appreciated!
          Deniz

          Reply ↓
          1. Alexander Post authorJanuary 25, 2017

             Hi Deniz,

             I can confirm the quality and craftsmanship of A. Lange & Söhne and Patek Philippe – not just these two particular models that you mentioned.

             I usually tell my readers to trust their own feelings and instincts. So basically you already knew which timepiece you wanted. There is no need for me recommending you a timepiece since you already knew which timepiece you intended to buy.

             As far as prices are concerned: terribly sorry Deniz but unfortunately I can’t help you with that.

             Cheers
             Alexander

             Reply ↓
31. tim January 14, 2017

    What are your comments about the Jules Audemars models?
    I know that Royal Oak is their signature model and I’m wondering why jules series is not so popular. As a matter of fact, I heard it was discontinued in some websites.
    The reason I’m asking you this is because I’m considering buying either Jules Audemars Automatic Chronograph Titanium Men’s Watch or Jules Audemars Chronograph Automatic Men’s Watch. I feel like I may be making a wrong decision. Thank you!

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorJanuary 14, 2017

       Hello Tim and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.

       It’s a very good question why the Jules Audemars isn’t that popular. There is nothing wrong with the timepiece. It’s handmade, it contains complications and is a prime example of what higher watchmaking is all about.
       My recommendation is that you contact Audemars Piguet at their website and ask them all the relevant questions.

       Since the 1970s, Audemars Piguet’s signature model has always been the Royal Oak.

       Before Audemars Piguet released the Royal Oak in the 70s, the company was on the brink of becoming bankrupt. The existing models didn’t appeal to the customers, so the brand made a bold new move and released the somewhat unusual Royal Oak. Audemars Piguet stands and falls today with the Royal Oak.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
       1. tim January 14, 2017

          Thank you so much for the comment.
          I’ve actually narrowed down my choices to JaegerLecoultre Geophysics Universal time, Rolex Submariner Black with Date, Blancpain moonphase, and Jules Audemars.
          Jules, in this case, gave a huge discount. I guess that is because Jules series is unpopular that they are willing to give such an offer.
          Could you tell me what your preferences would be in rank for the four I’ve mentioned, and any other watch models you would recommend that is below $10,000? Thank you!

          Reply ↓
          1. Alexander Post authorJanuary 14, 2017

             Hello again Tim.
             One word: Submariner
             This is my honest advice to you: forget the other timepieces. You’ll keep your Submariner all your life. It’s elegant and sporty, versatile, robust and built like a tank, anti-magnetic, shock resistant, and the movement is extremely accurate and reliable. And on top of that, the Submariner is water resistant and uses the 904L stainless steel. The Submariner can be used for any and every occasion imaginable. You can dress it up with a suit, and you can dress it down with a pair of jeans and a t-shirt.

             No matter the environment and the context of the situation – be it an ordinary everyday situation or festivities and ceremonies, a visit to the beach, a dive in the ocean, a meeting at the CEO’s office or a black tie event – you can never go wrong with the Submariner.

             Ultimately you need to pick a watch that you love regardless of my recommendations. If you love one of the other abovementioned timepieces, then you should absolutely get it. But my personal opinion is, that you should go with the Submariner.

             Cheers
             Alexander

             Reply ↓
             1. tim January 15, 2017

                thanks for the feedback.
                The reason that I am hesitant about Rolex Submariner are two reasons:
                1. Too many fake Rolex submariners out there.
                2. There are too many people who has this. So it takes away the sort of “uniqueness”

                And just wondering, where would you put Submariner in rank when you look at simply the movement only?
             2. Alexander Post authorJanuary 15, 2017

                I understand your hesitation, but if you purchase from an authorized dealer or from Amazon.com there is no need to worry. You’ll get an authentic Rolex Submariner.

                Yes, naturally are Submariners more commonly seen on people’s wrists than other even more expensive high end brands. Rolex is an industrial and financial powerhouse, whereas the other brands you mentioned – Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre and Blancpain, are small marginal brands specialized in higher watchmaking and hand made dress watches meant primarily for connoisseurs.

                However, the fact that a large amount of people have the Submariner does not in the slightest detract from its historical importance and technical and mechanical excellence.

                If you look at things from a perspective, you’ll see that most people don’t even wear a Rolex, and cannot afford a Rolex. Everything is relative of course, but my point is that the Submariner isn’t that “common” at all – unless of course you’re comparing it to Audemars Piguet, Blancpain and Jaeger LeCoultre – handmade higher end dress watches manufactured on a very small scale for connoisseurs.

                As far as accuracy goes, Rolex isn’t any worse than Blancpain, JLC or AP. Rolex’s movements aren’t pretty to look at – they are workhorses, but they work exceptionally well. The movements made by AP and Blancpain and JLC are beautiful pieces of art, but also very delicate.

                Ultimately you need to ask yourself three questions:
                1) Which timepiece truly appeals to my feelings?
                2) What do I need in and expect from a timepiece?
                3) Will I wear the timepiece every day or almost every single day?

                If you know the answer to all three questions,you’ll know which timepiece you should pick.

                Cheers
                Alexander
             3. tim January 15, 2017

                Thank you so much!

                Couldn’t ask for a better reply.
             4. Alexander Post authorJanuary 15, 2017

                You’re most welcome Tim. Anytime.
             5. tim January 25, 2017

                I ended up buying an IWC Portuguese Chronograph Black dial. (so no submariner)
                It was the watch that I liked most and also fit my lifestyle.
                I just want to say thank you so much for your help.
             6. Alexander Post authorJanuary 25, 2017

                Great to hear you’ve made a decision Tim. Glad I could help.
32. CK January 11, 2017

    Hello, Alexander,

    I have read your expert analysis with much interest and admiration. May I have your comparison of the following, say in terms of value for money? I would like to choose one for daily use.

    1) PP Calatrava 5296R-001
    2) VC Oveaseas 4500V/110a-B128
    3) VC Quai De L’Lile 4500S/000A-B195
    4) AP Royal Oak 15400ST.OO.1220ST.03
    5) Piaget Polo S chrono GoA41006

    Many thanks,

    CK

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorJanuary 11, 2017

       Hello CK and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.
       Kudos to you – your support is much appreciated.

       Nr 1 (Patek Philippe Calatrava 5296R-001), and nr 3 (Vacheron Constantin Quai De L’Lile 4500S/000A-B195) are dress watches.

       Nr 2 (Vacheron Constantin Oveaseas 4500V/110a-B128), nr 4 (Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15400ST.OO.1220ST.03) and nr 5 (Piaget Polo S chrono GoA41006) are steel sports watches.

       So the first question I need to ask you is: are you interested in dress watches or steel sports watches?

       1) Patek Philippe Calatrava (a dress watch) offers you the most basic time functions, and the movement is equipped with 29 jewels, a power reserve ranging from 35 – 45 hours, and beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour

       2) Vacheron Constantin Overseas (a steel sports watch) too is equipped with just the basic time functions, but offers a considerably more robust movement: 37 jewels, approximately 60 hours of power reserve and a frequency of 28,800 vph (the same as PP Calatrava).

       3) Vacheron Constantin Quai De L’Lile (a dress watch with a cushion shaped case) also offers the most basic time functions, and in similarity to the VC Overseas, its movement has the following performance data: 37 jewels, approximately 60 hours of power reserve and a frequency of 28,800 vph (the same as PP Calatrava).

       4) Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is a legendary steel sports watch – the flagship product of Audemars Piguet. This model too offers you just the basic time functions, but the movement is considerably different from the first three: while AP Royal Oak offers you a 60 hour power reserve, and 40 jewels, it only beats at 3 Hz (21,600 vph), which means the sweep of the second hand is visibly slower and considerably more jerky. It doesn’t affect the function per se, but the second hand is indeed visibly slower and jerkier due to a slower speed. Some people are bothered by the aesthetics of the slower and jerkier movement of the second hand, while others aren’t in the slightest bothered by it.

       5) Piaget Polo S chrono GoA41006 is a steel sports watch with a chronograph movement. The movement: 35 jewels, 50 hour Power reserve and beats at 28,800 vph (vibrations per hour).

       My personal verdict: all 5 watches are extremely prestigious and expensive timepieces made by premium Swiss luxury watch brands in the finest Swiss tradition.

       In terms of value for money, meaning which timepiece offers you a maximum amount of features and functions, in conjunction with an accurate movement, with a high number of jewels and a considerable power reserve, for the amount of money you pay for the timepiece, I’d say Piaget Polo S chrono GoA41006 is the right choice.

       Value for money: Piaget Polo S chrono GoA41006.

       Most prestigious model and brand out of these 5 above mentioned models: Patek Philippe Calatrava.

       Which timepiece you should pick: the particular timepiece that sings to your heart. Which timepiece appeals to you the most?

       Ultimately, you should pick a timepice that appeals to your feelings, regardless of the technical specifications or such subjective concepts such as “prestige” or “ranking”. If you purchase a watch you truly love to wear every single day, you’ve made the right choice.
       Only you can know which of these 5 models suits your personality the best.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
       1. CK January 12, 2017

          Thank you, Alexander, for your helpful advice and information.

          With regards,
          CK

          Reply ↓
          1. Alexander Post authorJanuary 12, 2017

             I’m glad I could help CK!

             Cheers
             Alexander

             Reply ↓
             1. CK April 2, 2017

                Hello again, Alexander,

                I have, after further checking, shortlisted the following two, and would like to hear your advice before firming up my mind:

                (1) VC Quai de L’ile (steel), and
                (2) JLC Master Geographic (steel).

                How would you compare the two? I thank you in advance.

                With regards,
                CK
             2. Alexander Post authorApril 2, 2017

                Hello again CK,

                Both VC Quai de L’ile (steel) and JLC Master Geographic (steel) are dress watches, both are handmade in the finest Swiss tradition, and both brands are ranked amongst the top 10 luxury watch brands of the world. As a brand, Vacheron Constantin is (usually) ranked higher than JLC, although the difference in ranking is negligible.

                I’m not really sure what criteria you are using. Some of the VC Quai de L’ile models have a moon phase indicator, month indicator and a date indicator, whilst most of their models have a date indicator.

                Most of the JLC Master Geographic models are equipped with a power reserve indicator, month indicator and date indicator.

                The rest is aesthetical CK. You need to decide for yourself what functions you need and which model’s aesthetics appeals to you the most.

                Cheers
                Alexander
33. George January 7, 2017

    Hi Alexander – what about Ulysse Nardin?

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorJanuary 7, 2017

       Hi George and a warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.

       The ranking is subjective of course, but I would probably rank Ulysse Nardin amongst say the top 16-20 luxury wristwatch brands.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
34. Akhil January 6, 2017

    Hello,

    I would like to first thank you for this wonderful list! I am looking for a large dial (42mm+) watch with a budget of about $4,000.00. I need it for everyday, I generally wear formal (tie) on an everyday basis. This will be my first watch. I am not a fan of watches with big basels. Do you have any suggestions? The ones I had in mind were below:

    Baume & Mercier Capeland 10000
    Baume & Mercier Capeland 10063
    Baume & Mercier Capeland 10064 (favorite out of this series)
    Breitling Navitimer (Love the entire series but puts me way out of budget)
    Many of the Longines watches fall into this category as well (Large dial minimal to no Basel)

    Do you have any suggestions for others?

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorJanuary 6, 2017

       Hello Akhil, and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.
       Thank you for visiting the blog – I appreciate it.

       There really is no need to ask me which watch you should pick. Only you can know which watch you truly like. It doesn’t really matter how I rank the brands or what I personally think of the brands. If you like Baume & Mercier and their combined chronograph and dress watches, it means you have found a design that appeals to your feelings, so there really is no need to ask me what I think how you should spend your money Akhil.

       The questions you need to ask yourselves are:
       1) Do you genuinely like the watch?
       2) Will you wear it everyday? This is an important question because this reveals how much you desire it.
       3) Does it have the proper functions and aesthetics that suit your personal taste and lifestyle?

       If the answer is yes to all questions, you’ve found the right timepiece.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
35. Hans December 16, 2016

    I would think Piaget should be ranked ahead of some on your list, for sure.

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorDecember 16, 2016

       Hello Hans,
       Yes the ranking is naturally subjective and certainly not set in stone but if it were up to me, Piaget would probably be ranked amongst the top 15-20 luxury wristwatch brands.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
36. Manuel Betancourth December 16, 2016

    Well detailed article, enjoyed it. I’d like to know what are your thoughts on Longines and TAG Heuer? I’m debating between an TAG Aquaracer Calibre 5 300 m. and a Longines HydroConquest. What is your opinion on both models?

    Regards.

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorDecember 16, 2016

       Hello Manuel and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.

       They are both excellent Swiss Made divers watches enjoying a legendary reputation really. Both models – the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Calibre 5 300 m, and Longines HydroConquest, have a decent build quality – not as good as the Rolex Submariner, Rolex Sea Dweller, the various iterations and versions of the Omega Seamasters and the Breitling Chronomat, but not as flimsy as say Seiko, Victorinox, Tissot and Certina.

       Both TAG Heuer and Longines use standard stainless steel – 316 L (the same one used by Omega and Breitling).
       Both the TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300m and the Longines HydroConquest are water resistant at 30 bar/300 meters/1000 feet.

       And both brands have lost their independence back in the 1980s, and are nowadays owned by major corporate groups: TAG Heuer is a wholly owned subsidiary of LVMH (Louis Vuitton/Moët Hennessy) and Longines is a wholly owned subsidiary of Swatch Group.

       TAG Heuer uses a fold over clasp just like the Longines.
       TAG Heuer is more famous due to marketing while Longines is a brand considerably more appreciated by connoisseurs (due to Longines’ long and respectable history).

       Let’s compare the movements of TAG Heuer Aquaracer Calibre 5 300m and the Longines HydroConquest: The TAG Heuer Calibre 5 300m, if I’m not mistaken, relies on an in-house made TAG Heuer movement, while the Longines HydroConquest relies on Longines automatic movement L633, which is simply Swatch Group’s generic but excellent ETA 2428-2 base movement.
       Both movements have 25 jewels, a vph of 28,800 (28,800 vibrations per hour), and a 38 hour power reserve.

       Technically and mechanically speaking, I wouldn’t consider any of these two models “better” or “worse”.

       What it really comes down to Manuel is personal taste. TAG Heuer is sportier and Longines has this elegant and classic timeless quality about it.

       My personal favorite, based on design and aesthetics alone, would be the Longines HydroConquest.

       You can purchase the TAG Heuer Aquaracer here: http://swissdiverswatches.com/tag-heuer-aquaracer-for-sale
       You can purchase the Longines HydroConquest here: http://swissdiverswatches.com/longines-hydroconquest-watches

       Feel free to ask more questions and I hope this helps.
       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
       1. Manuel Betancourth December 18, 2016

          Thank you Alexander, looking forward to another great article.

          Regards.

          Reply ↓
          1. Alexander Post authorDecember 18, 2016

             You’re most welcome Manuel. I’m glad I could help.

             Cheers
             Alexander

             Reply ↓
37. Lynn Rivera December 15, 2016

    Hello Alexander.

    I am currently in the market to purchase a watch very soon for my husband. I have narrowed it down to one brand Breitling. The watch that I’m currently looking at is the Colt 41 automatic. I know that Breitling is famously known for its chronograph watches . What are your thoughts on that particular watch versus a chronograph watch do you think it something that I should definitely consider ? I don’t want to spend an excessive amount either. He is a business man however he doesn’t engage in sports like diving etc.
    Just so that I am clear, could you also explain to me the difference between an automatic vs quartz.

    Thank you in advance,
    Lynn

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorDecember 15, 2016

       Hello Lynn and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.

       I want to commend you on an excellent choice – you can’t wrong with Breitling Colt. You do get a lot considering what you’re paying for it.

       Yes, Breitling is famous for its professional chronograph watches used primarily by pilots and divers. These watches have a distinct professional, industrial and instrumental “look” to them.

       Breitling offers both “ordinary” watches and chronographs, and both the non-chronograph watches and the chronographs are COSC certified (meaning they are very accurate watches) and both the non-chronograph watches, and the chronographs, come either in quartz or automatic movements.

       So essentially what you need to ask yourself is whether or not your husband needs a chronograph function in his timepiece, or if he likes to stick to the basics – meaning hour-, minute-, and second hands, and a date window. There is no “right” and “wrong” here – just his personal preference.

       Does he like a clean minimalistic look? Then he should go with the non-chronograph Breitling Colt.
       Does he like technical and mechanical complications (many guys do) and additional features? Then he should go with Breitling Colt Chronograph.

       Quartz means it’s a battery movement – it takes care of itself. It’s the cheapest, most reliable and most user friendly movement out there. Roughly 80-85% of all watches out there on the commercial market, are quartz (battery driven), and this would include dozens if not hundreds of brands – not just Breitling.

       Automatic movement means a mechanical movement (no battery involved) which automatically winds up itself due to the person’s or the wearer’s natural hand, and arm movements.
       This means that as long as you use your automatic watch every day or almost every single day , the watch takes care of itself: your hand and arm movements will naturally and automatically wind up the mechanical movement (hence the name – “automatic movement”), and there is no need to manually wind up the watch.

       The only scenarios in which you need to manually wind an automatic watch: If you have just unboxed a brand new automatic watch that you need manually wind up the first time (in order to activate it), or when you haven’t used the watch for a couple of days and the watch stops, and you need manually wind it up again in order to activate the watch’s movement.

       You can purchase Breitling Colt online here: http://swissdiverswatches.com/breitling-colt-watches

       Feel free to ask additional questions.
       I hope this helps.
       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
38. Jae December 11, 2016

    Hello,
    Thank you for the detailed article- I really enjoyed reading it.
    I am planning to buy a watch in the 2000-4000 dollar range, and I was wondering if you could recommend me around 5 brands according to your categories, and possibly their models as well.
    Also, would it be best to buy watches from each brand’s official website, or is there a better way?
    Thank you so much!

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorDecember 11, 2016

       Hello Jae and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.

       I can recommend you 5 brands in the given price range:
       1) Bell & Ross
       2) Breitling
       3) Tudor
       4) Omega
       5) Oris

       I’m not sure what sort of watch you are looking for. Are you looking for a dress watch, pilot watch or divers watch? Since you didn’t state what sort of watch you are looking for I can’t recommend a specific model.

       You could either make your purchase at your local authorized retailers or online, since online retailers can offer you luxury watches at reduced prices.

       Swiss Divers Watches.com does contain a shopping area as well: http://swissdiverswatches.com/buy-a-luxury-watch-online

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
       1. Jae December 11, 2016

          Oh, I’m looking for a watch that works as a dress watch and also as a casual watch.
          I was also wondering how Longines compares to the brands you stated above?
          And lastly, you wouldn’t recommend gray market, would you?

          Thank you!

          Reply ↓
          1. Jae December 11, 2016

             I’m just wondering about the gray market because of the authenticity

             Reply ↓
             1. Alexander Post authorDecember 12, 2016

                “Gray market” simply means online watch retailers who do not have an official agreement to sell and repair the timepieces of the respective brands. That’s the reason they offer 100% authentic Swiss luxury watches at reduced prices.

                Since the price of the timepiece is the nr 1 priority of most luxury watch buyers, they are willing to purchase Swiss luxury watches online – even though many of the online retailers may not be “authorized” in the strictest sense. Each Swiss brand has its very own policy of what is allowed, and when and if their official warranty is applicable or not.

                What it really boils down to is the warranty. If you make your purchase at an authorized dealer, the warranty will cover all costs and expenses of the service and the repairs, but once the warranty period has expired, the individual watch owner needs to pay himself/herself for the service and the repairs of the watch.

                Authorized dealers are relevant with regards to the official warranty offered the first 1-5 years depending on the brand.

                Even when the warranty period has expired I still recommend you to service and repair your watch at authorized dealers.

                The online retailers – many of them unauthorized, might instead offer you their own specific warranty. This means that the watch is covered by their own warranty and not by the brand’s official warranty which applies only to authorized dealers. This means that if you purchase a watch online, you cannot approach your local authorized dealer and invoke the online retailer’s warranty because their warranty won’t be accepted by authorized dealers.

                People purchase watches online due to heavily reduced prices, but at the same time they are taking chances when they are not being given the brand’s official warranty. But on the other hand, the risk that a brand new Swiss luxury watch will break down during the first 3-5 years is quite slim to be honest, and even if you purchase a watch at an authorized dealer, once the warranty period has expired, the watch owner is at his own.
             2. Alexander Post authorDecember 12, 2016

                If you’re looking for a combined dress watch and casual watch, I’d recommend the Swiss brands that I mentioned above. More specifically I’d recommend their divers watches.

                This website is dedicated to Swiss Made divers watches, so just have a look around, take a look at the brands, and their collections and see if you like something. Bell & Ross might have a very unconventional and sporty look, but the divers watches offered by Breitling, Tudor, Omega and Oris are very versatile: they are elegant and sporty at the same time.

                Longines is a very good brand. I can highly recommend it, and the reason I didn’t mention it in the listing above is because most Longines watches are a lot more affordable than the price range you stated. Most Longines watches can be found in the $1000-$2000 range.

                Cheers
                Alexander
39. Paul C. November 29, 2016

    Hello Alexander,

    I want to commend you on a great article very in depth and very informative. I’m at the cross roads of purchasing either a IWC portuguese grande complication 377402 or a Patek Phillipe 5970J. The IWC is attract because the of price and what you receive (minute repeater, etc.) IWC seems to have come along way. Additionally, I know Patek Phillipe is considered the “holy grail” of watch makers. Which would you recommend? Any insight would be appreciated.

    Cheers,
    Paul C.

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorNovember 29, 2016

       Hello Paul and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.

       Let me commend you on your good taste in watches – IWC Portuguese grande complication 377402, and Patek Phillipe 5970J, are the very epitome of higher watchmaking.

       So let’s compare the watches.

       Function wise, both the IWC grande complication and the Patek Philippe grand complication are very similar if not identical: moonphase, chronograph, day of the week, date of the month, month, year indicator, perpetual calendar. I believe that the Patek Philippe is in addition, equipped with a tachymeter. So, with the Patek Philippe you’ll get an extra added function.

       The movement: Patek Philippe is powered by a manual hand wind movement while the IWC is powered by an automatic movement. For daily use, the IWC is without question, a lot more comfortable to use and wear.

       Case material: Patek Philippe relies on yellow gold, while IWC relies either on red gold or platinum. This is just a matter of personal preference.

       As far as aesthetics is concerned, both the IWC Portuguese grande complication and the Patek Philippe grande complication are very similar, in fact almost identical, with the minor difference that the IWC Portuguese moon phase is indicated at the top of the dial and the Patek Philippe moon phase is indicated at the very bottom of the dial.

       As far as price is concerned: they are both found in roughly the same price range.

       As far as brand recognition, status and ranking are concerned: yes Patek Philippe (alongside Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet) is considered by many to belong to the “top three luxury wristwatch brands” of the world: meaning the “The Holy Grail” or “The Holy Trinity” – whatever terminology people prefer.

       I’d assume that the main reasons why Patek Philippe is consistently ranked higher than IWC, is due to the fact that Patek Philippe is an independent family owned firm while IWC is owned by Richemont Group, Patek Philippe has won more than 700 timekeeping prizes between 1900 and 1939, and more than 300 first prizes between 1900 and 1951, and in 2009, Patek Philippe released the Patek Philippe Seal, which is a quality benchmark for Patek Philippe’s mechanical watches, and a quality benchmark which stands above the rest of the Swiss Watch industry.

       On top of that, 100% of Patek’s movements are in-house made, while IWC by contrast, relies mostly on generic ETA and Valjoux movements by Swatch Group. Very few of IWC’s models and collections rely on in-house made IWC movements.

       The real reason why IWC should still be accepted into the “big boys’ club” is because IWC’s higher end timepieces, are very much comparable to the grande complications by Patek Philippe, Jaeger LeCoultre, Breguet etc.

       So I guess you could say that as a brand, IWC is most definitely not comparable to Patek Philippe, but on the other hand, as a private person and as a consumer, it’s really the individual timepiece or the individual model, that truly matters, from a purely practical, utilitarian, quality and luxury point of view. Seen from this perspective, I don’t see any real reason as to why the Patek Philippe grand complication would be “preferable” to the IWC Portuguese grand complication.

       As far as I am concerned, I would consider the IWC grand complication to be on par with the Patek Philippe grand complication, even though IWC as a brand and as a company, may not be on par with Patek.

       My recommendation to you is to go with the particular timepiece that appeals to your feelings the most.
       Either choice is a great choice and you can’t go wrong with either of them.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
40. Ryan November 28, 2016

    Alexander,

    Fantastic and informative article, thank you. I have a few questions, I am a novice when it comes to watches. I have a smaller wrist (6.3″) and I’ve only owned a few store brand models that were always too big/bulky, which turned me off to wearing watches for many years. However, I’d like your opinion a brand that has options for smaller wrists. I am looking for an everyday, business casual watch (not Tuxedo attire accessory at this point) that would be a step up from the store brands. I am open to any suggestions and appreciate your time and response.

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorNovember 29, 2016

       Hi Ryan and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.
       You asked very good questions. Since this website is dedicated to Swiss Made divers watches, and since these kind of watches are, in all earnest, the most practical, robust and versatile all-round watches that money can buy today on the luxury watch market, I’d recommend you a small assortment and picks of divers watches/sports watches – some of these brands are Swiss and some aren’t.

       I’m not sure what budget you are looking at, but I ‘ve taken your criteria into consideration:
       1) Small wrists, and
       2) Business casual watches. I’d assume that you mean that the watch can be used for both everyday life and festive and formal occasions.

       Based on your criteria I’d recommend:

       1) Rolex Submariner
       2) Omega Seamaster Professional 300
       3) Oris Aquis Date 40mm
       4) Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 600
       5) MKII Nassau
       6) TAG Heuer Aquaracer
       7) Longines HydroConquest
       8) Longines Legend Diver
       9) Certina DS Action Diver
       10) Steinhart Ocean One (a homage to Rolex Submariner)

       They are all very versatile watches that can both be dressed up with tuxedoes and business suits, and be dressed down with jeans and t-shirts.

       Feel free to ask more questions and I hope this helps.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
       1. Ryan December 23, 2016

          Hello again Alexander,

          I wanted to thank you for your information and let you know that I went with the 38mm Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro. Not only is it a perfect fit, but a beautiful timepiece as well. I am extremely happy and wanted to again thank you for your assistance.

          Reply ↓
          1. Alexander Post authorDecember 23, 2016

             You’re most welcome Ryan! I’m glad I could help.

             Reply ↓
41. Anthony Wang November 23, 2016

    would like to know your view on Louis Moinet, Piaget, blanpain and breguet.

    really into skeleton style

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorNovember 23, 2016

       Hi Anthony and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.

       I’ve mentioned Blancpain and Breguet in the blog article above. They are ranked as nr 8 and nr 7 respectively.
       Piaget – I would rank it among the top 15-20 brands.

       Louis Moinet is an elite French luxury watchmaker specialized in handmade dress watches – usually with either embellished dials with exotic and highly unconventional artistic motives – or skeletonized dials, and movements equipped with chronographs, tourbillons and movement complications. Louis Moinet invented the chronograph in 1816, which means that this manufacturer no doubt has left its mark on the luxury wristwatch industry, but due to the brand’s relatively small size and its anonymity amongs most people, I’d probably rank Louis Moinet amongst say the top 20-30 brands.

       Please note that this is merely my personal evaluation and assessment of the brands and my opinions are by no means objective and by no means the Gospels.

       I hope this helps.
       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
42. Penny October 25, 2016

    Hi Alex,

    How about Fortis? What is your view and opinions on fortis?

    Best regards
    Penny

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorOctober 31, 2016

       Hi Penny and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.
       I’m terribly sorry for my late reply – I’ve been on a 7 day long vacation.

       Fortis is a well made and respectable Swiss Made brand which offers quality watches at reasonable prices, but since they almost exclusively rely on a third party to make their movements (Swatch Group) and since Fortis almost exclusively relies on generic ETA and Valjoux movements, I wouldn’t personally rank Fortis among the top 15 brands.

       So how should Fortis be ranked? This is a good question since there are many brands of similar price range that in similarity to Fortis rely on generic ETA and Valjoux movements.

       Fortis should maybe be ranked among say the top 30-40 brands. This is quite difficult to say really because the more “generic” the brands are, the higher the competition will be. The top 15 brands which I have ranked here on this blog are exceptional brands that are anything but generic.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
43. Joe Mallon October 5, 2016

    Awesome article this took you a lot of time.

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorOctober 5, 2016

       Hi Joe. I’m glad you like the article. Yes, the research behind the article took indeed a lot of time.
       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
44. Peyman September 21, 2016

    Hi Alexander,
    Wonderful blog and really enjoyed reading, not only the article, but also your comprehensive and in-depth replies to most of the comments (I actually read the whole comments section under the article!)
    I have a question regarding purchase of a new watch. I bought my first automatic watch in 2013, when I did not know enough about watches (and I though I was buying a decent-for-the price watch with in-house movement that was bound to be a future classic! 🙂
    It was a Frederique Constant Maxime Manufacture (which I’ve still kept b/c I can only sell it dirt cheap…and I still like certain things about it).
    After getting more into watches through reading forums and websites, last year I got myself a Rolex GMT BLNR (Batman as they call it). Now I intend to buy a decent dressy watch or dressy chrono, which won’t break my bank account (in the sub 10K$ region). I really like the simple and elegant look of the Zenith El Primero Chronograph Classic released last year but Zenith’s current uncertain brand status kind of worries me; can you recommend some alternatives?
    Thanks in advance.
    Cheers,
    Peyman

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorSeptember 22, 2016

       Hello Peyman and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.
       I’m delighted to hear that you enjoy reading my blog.

       I’m not quite sure why you would consider Zenith’s brand status to be uncertain – it’s one of the primary Swiss elite luxury watchmakers on the market today. There’s nothing wrong with Zenith. Maybe you’re referring to Zenith’s lack of fame? Well, indeed, Zenith isn’t famous but they sure are excellent. There’s nothing wrong with Zenith El Primero Chronograph. This is actually an excellent choice Peyman.

       However, if you want a combined dress watch and chronograph watch, as an alternative, to Zenith El Primero Chronograph, you might take a look at:
       1) Omega De Ville Co-Axial Chronograph 431.13.42.51.02.001,
       2) Omega De Ville Co-Axial Chronograph 431.13.42.51.03.001,
       3) Omega De Ville Co-Axial Chronograph 431.13.42.51.01.001,
       4) IWC Portofino Chronograph IW391008,
       5) IWC Portuguese IW371445,
       6) IWC Portuguese IW371447,
       7) and IWC Portuguese IW371446.

       I hope this helps and if you’ve got more questions feel free to ask them.
       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
45. Ben September 11, 2016

    Greetings.

    As a a relatively new watch aficionado, Glaschutte is mentioned only once in passing.

    Where does Glaschutte stand in your personal rankings?

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorSeptember 11, 2016

       Hello Ben and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.
       I’m glad you mentioned Glashütte. This is an interesting brand and one of Germany’s finest brands next to A. Lange & Söhne.
       Yes, as you’ve seen, Glashütte isn’t mentioned in the top 15 category. So where to place Glashütte in the subjective “hierarchy”? We could potentially place Glashütte in the top 16-20 list or the top 20-25 list, but Glashütte would no doubt compete with other brands such as Piaget, Richard Mille, Roger Dubuis, Ulysse Nardin, Chopard and Girard Perregaux.

       I’d say that Glashütte probably deserves to be ranked among the top 16-25 brands, and keep in mind that there are quite literally hundreds of Swiss, Japanese, German, Italian and other brands across the world, so ranking Glashütte among the top 16-25 brands isn’t bad at all.

       The ranking itself is naturally subjective and so are the criteria I’ve chosen for the ranking. When some brands are more or less equal to each other in terms of quality, accuracy, technology and craftsmanship, it’s no doubt difficult to determine which brands should be ranker higher.

       I hope this answers your question and if you have more questions feel free to ask them.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
46. Jonathan August 17, 2016

    Hello Alexander. Great blog. I’ve been following it for a while. I have a short question. Why would you rank Breitling above Panerai? Aren’t Panerais usually more expensive than Breitlings?

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorAugust 17, 2016

       Hello Jonathan, and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com – and I’m delighted to hear that you’re following my blog. Kudos to you.

       You’ve raised a very valid point. Indeed, Panerais tend to be a lot more expensive than Breitlings for sure.
       A higher price tag alone doesn’t make a brand better than the other. The price itself is based on supply and demand, production costs, and labor costs, and the possible usage of precious materials. That itself however says very little of the luxury watch manufacturer’s impact on watch making history, modern history and culture, it’s innovations and technical solutions, build quality, steel grade, the level of the movement’s accuracy and reliability and the brand’s resale value and customer service.

       For a variety of reasons I’d rank Breitling higher than Panerai. One of the reasons would be impact on history and modern culture.

       Breitling Navitimer has been used in outer space in 1962 by Scott Carpenter in the Aurora 7 capsule, and Breitling has been, and pretty much still is the nr 1 aviation luxury watch brand on the market. Breitling also offers a great variety of divers watch collections. Breitling is known for their complex and complicated functions and world class chronographs. On top of that, a Breitling was used by Bond actor Sean Connery in Thunderball in 1965.

       Panerai is historically speaking known for one thing alone: Panerai was once the Italian Navy’s official supplier of military watches in the early and mid 20th century. Most Panerais offer you only the most basic functions: hour-, minute-, and second hands and a date window. Sometimes, Panerais don’t even offer you a date window. Many Panerais contain manual hand wind movements.

       On top of that, Breitling watches are chronometer certified while Panerais aren’t at all.
       Breitling offers pilot watches, chronographs and divers watches, while Panerai basically offers divers watches and water resistant sports watches. Breitling has a larger variety of collections while Panerai is much more niche oriented.

       Breitling is one of the few fully independent Swiss luxury watch manufacturers left in the industry while Panerai is owned by Richemont Group.

       Given these facts I’d give the edge to Breitling although both brands are impressive in their own right.
       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
47. Chon August 12, 2016

    Hi Alexander.

    You’ve created a very interesting blog.

    I hope you can give an opinion on the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M James Bond Limited Edition Reference 231.10.42.21.03.004 (Blue Dial)

    I find this piece very beautiful. Is really limited edition? Have you any idea how many pieces are produce? I’ve been around Omega boutiques and other watch retailers, but found none.

    I look forward to your reply.

    Thanks.

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorAugust 12, 2016

       Hello Chon and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.
       Yes the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra, ref nr. 231.10.42.21.03.004 is indeed a limited edition with the Omega Co-Axial 8507 movement, which is based on the 8500 movement. It can resist more than 15.000 gauss, so this is a very modern and cutting edge movement technology.
       The Aqua Terras retain the Seamaster family name but they are fundamentally different from the Planet Oceans and the Seamaster Professionals, since the Aqua Terras are the most dressy option you can get within the Seamaster family.

       This is an elegant, versatile, rugged and practical watch which has Omega written into its DNA. The Aqua Terras represent what Omega is all about: minimalist design, reliability, elegance, and a sporty and rugged exterior and a powerful engine on the inside. The Aqua Terras are sportier then say Omega De Ville but dressier than the other Seamaster collections.

       Is it a good watch? Yes, absolutely. I’ve said this for many years: it’s only a question of time before Omega is on par with Rolex as far as quality and reliability are concerned. And as far as price range is concerned, Omega is aiming to compete with Rolex.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
48. Alejandro Faccini August 9, 2016

    Dear Alexander..
    I’m totally agree with your ranking….
    Cheers

    Alejandro

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorAugust 9, 2016

       I’m glad you like the article Alejandro,
       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
49. Anna July 15, 2016

    Thanks much for the informative article. I am looking for the watch for myself. I currently mostly wear Omega DeVille as I have small wrist and it both looks good and feels comfortable. I am looking to get another dress watch within the $5,000 range and am interested in your opinion. I also prefer either roman or arabic numbers in each of the clock position.
    Thank you!

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorJuly 16, 2016

       Hello Anna and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.
       If you want some legendary dress watches with either arabic or roman numerals, I can recommend you Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso – most of their watches have arabic numerals. If you want a dress watch with roman numerals in a similar price range, I can recommend you Cartier Tank or Cartier Santos.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
       1. Anna July 25, 2016

          Thanks much for suggestions! I prefer round simple clean look. Something similar to Omega DeVille. Jaeger LeCoultre Rendezvous looks great 🙂 but is over my budget.

          Reply ↓
          1. Alexander Post authorJuly 26, 2016

             Hello Anna,
             Another alternative is of course the Jaeger LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin, which has a round case but no arabic or roman numerals. It’s often difficult to find a watch with all the desired aesthetic and technical details in a particular price range.
             I wish you the best of luck of finding your dream watch.
             Cheers
             Alexander

             Reply ↓
50. Javier July 6, 2016

    Hello Alexander.
    Which would you recommend and why? Breitling watch or Cartier?

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorJuly 6, 2016

       Hello Javier and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.
       If you’re interested in a dress watch then I believe you should opt for Cartier since that’s what the brand is famous for, and if you’re primarily intertested in sports watches such as chronographs, pilots watches or divers watches, then you should go with Breitling.

       I guess you could put it like this: if Cartier is all about design and aesthetics, then Breitling is all about function and performance.

       My personal favorite out of these two brands? Breitling.

       Which brand or watch I think you should pick? Well, it’s your money and your decision, but I think you should pick a watch that appeals to your feelings and makes your heart sing with joy.

       When a watch makes your heart sing with joy, then you know for sure that you have chosen the right watch. Trust your heart and your good judgement and then’ll you know which watch you should opt for.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
51. Oliver July 3, 2016

    Hi there would you not consider oris to be anywhere in list? Good Swiss brand with a lot of history and on the up also gotta be one of the biggest players out there on the dive watch market with the pro diver and all the watches by the brand are proud to be automatic?

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorJuly 3, 2016

       Hello Oliver and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.
       Oris is a great brand which makes amongst the very best divers watches on the market, but it lacks the market presence, fame (most people haven’t heard of Oris) resale value, history & heritage, impact on watchmaking & innovation, impact on modern culture, and the technical wizardry of the top 15 brands.

       Oris does not even make their own movements, and if they do they do so on a very limited scale. Oris relies primarily on third parties to supply the company with movements such as ETA, Valjoux and Sellita. Oris might put their stamp and name on the movements, but it’s essentially not their own technology.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
52. Amy June 29, 2016

    Hello Alexander. I am looking for a nice watch for my husband under $5,000. I have narrowed it down to Tiffany & Co. and Cartier. Which would you recommend between those two brands and why? My husband is all about watches and name brands, although the only luxury watch he owns is Burberry. He does prefer a leather strap vs a bracelet. I love the Ronde Solo de Cartier watch and the Atlas Watch from Tiffany & Co. I really don’t know much about watches except Swiss watches are apparently the best made. Thanks.

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorJune 29, 2016

       Hello Amy and a warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.
       Both brands are respectable, both brands rely on Swiss movements and both brands are made in Switzerland. If your husband is looking for a famous and prestigious brand, then he should go with Cartier, since this brand is absolutely legendary.

       Ronde de Solo is a nice watch, and other really nice dress watch collections by Cartier would be Cartier Tank, Cartier Santos and Calibre de Cartier.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
53. Mihai June 23, 2016

    I don’t think omega is better than zenith , zenith has a big big big history in producing watches omega history was only moon watch that wasn’t a moonwatch , zenith has the most accurate collection in the world , the El Primero with a lot of patents that have been implemented in the past 50 years and zenith tend to be more exclusive than omega even though there aren’t so many people who knows what is zenith . And finally why people buy zenith and not omega , zenith are more expensive and actually more l’haute horologie if you know what i mean. To me omega except 8500 and 9300 is very boring

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorJune 24, 2016

       Hello Mihai and welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.
       Naturally you’re entitled to your opinion, and I respect your opinion, and my ranking isn’t set in stone, but I respectfully disagree.

       The fame of the brand for example, is one factor that I’m taking into account when determining the ranking of the brands. Omega is known all across the world. Hardly anyone has heard of Zenith. Most of Zenith’s watches just rely on the simpliest time functions you can think of: hour-, minute-, and second hands and a date window. Very few Zenith watches are equipped with complications.

       As far as pricing is concerned: Pricing of course is one aspect to determine the overall ranking of a brand – it’s safe to assume that many expensive products are well made but that’s not always the case.

       The price of a luxury watch or any commercial product for that matter, is determined by supply and demand and production costs and labor costs, and the usage of precious materials.

       That itself says nothing of the 1) accuracy and reliability of the movements 2) movement complications 3) history and heritage and impact on watchmaking history and impact on modern culture 3) steel grade 4) build quality 5) resale value etc.

       Using Zenith’s generally speaking higher price range against Omega is like saying that Hublot is a “better” brand than Rolex because Hublot tends to be more expensive than Rolex. A higher price doesn’t necessarily make it a “better” product.

       Besides the El Primero movement, and besides the technical wizardry and innovations made by Zenith, the brand has had a very marginal impact on watchmaking history. Zenith’s impact on watchmaking history is nothing in comparison to the impact that say Omega, Rolex, Breguet, Jaeger LeCoultre, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet have had.

       Of all luxury watch brands out there, NASA picked Omega and Omega alone for the legendary journey to the moon in 1969. Omega alone passed all NASA’s demanding, exacting laboratory tests with flying colors. Rolex and Longines and other brands failed NASA’s tests miserably.

       Omega is associated with the Bond movie franchise. Prince William of the United Kingdom is known to have worn an Omega Seamaster Professional for several years. Omega has had an enormous impact on modern and popular culture, is the only watchmaking giant which is almost on par with Rolex in terms of volume of production, Omega has made amongst the best divers watches in the industry – the Seamasters, and Omega has won several accuracy contests. In 1917, the legendary luxury watch manufacturer became the official timekeeper of The British Royal Airforce. In 1918, the watchmaker became the official timekeeper of The US Army. In 1970, the legendary French naval officer, Commander, oceanographer, scientist, photographer and movie maker Jacques Cousteau requested a divers watch. Omega created the Seamaster 600 – Plongeur Professionnel (PLOPROF). That year, this watch won the record for deep-sea diving – which is another accomplishment of the Omega brand.

       Has Zenith accomplished any of Omega’s feats?

       Omega’s Co-Axial movements are used exclusively by Omega. Not even Breguet and Blancpain, that too are owned by Swatch Group, are allowed to access the Co-Axial technology.

       Omega’s 2500 movement has proven on several occasions to be even more accurate than Rolex’s 3135 movement. The Omega 8500 and 9300 movements are according to many sources the most accurate automatic movements available on the market today, which either means that they are on par with Zenith or they might even exceed Zenith.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
54. Daniel Carlos June 15, 2016

    Great blog Alexander.

    I have a few questions though:
    1. If you were to pick up to 20 collections, what will your 16th to the 20th be?
    2. In your honest opinion, which Rolex model is better: Submariner II vs. GMT-Master II vs. DateJust II?; lastly,
    3. What are thoughts about IWC Portofino Chronograph?

    Your comments will be greatly appreciated.

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorJune 15, 2016

       Hello Daniel and a warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.
       I’m delighted to hear that you like the blog.
       With regards to your questions I’ll try to answer them as well as I can.

       Question 1:
       Spot 16 – probably Ulysse Nardin.
       Spot 17 – probably Piaget.
       Spot 18 – probably Chopard.
       Spot 19 – probably Girard Perregaux.
       Spot 20 – probably Richard Mille.

       What characterizes all these brands is that they are handmade extreme luxury brands with a very limited production and a very limited market presence. Very few people have heard of these relatively marginal brands, but due to these brands’ technical mastery, and movement complications, I do believe they belong among the top 16-20 brands. Please remember: these are just my personal opinions. The ranking is not written in stone.

       Question 2: That’s a good question Daniel, and that might be a bit difficult to answer. When you say “better”, what criteria are you using? As far as water resistance is concerned – the Submariner wins. As far as diving is concerned, the Submariner is the best choice due to the unidirectional bezel and the 300 meter/1000 feet water resistance.

       The GMT Master has a bi-directional bezel which is suited for GMT and not for diving and the water resistance of either GMT Master II and Datejust is 100 meters.

       As far as practicality is concerned, the Submariner is the ultimate divers watch while the GMT – Master II is suitable for people who travel a good deal. Datejust is probably the least practical of the three.

       Personally I prefer the Submariner due to its history, design, comfort, accurate and reliable movement, it’s water resistance, it’s versatility and its brushed case and bracelet.

       Question 3: IWC Portofino is a legendary collection, albeit I have to admit that I’m not personally attracted to their design. I have never been a fan of IWC. Nothing wrong with the brand though. The more affordable IWC Portofino Chronographs use the Valjoux 7750 which is of course a good and reliable movement but considering what you pay for them you’d probably expect more. The more upscale IWC Portofino Chronographs use the IWC in-house movement 59210 with a 72 hour power reserve which is a respectable movement.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
55. Elena June 13, 2016

    Dear Alexander

    Very informative ranking thank you. I am looking to buy a watch for my son who is 25 and I am confused. We have been looking at Bulgari, Chopard and TagHeuer Carrera. Yesterday I also went to the Breitling watch and I was impressed by their sports watches.
    Which brand from the above is best??

    Thanks a lot for your reply
    Elena

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorJune 13, 2016

       Dear Elena,
       A warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com. If your son has an active lifestyle, I’d suggest a sports/divers watch either by TAG Heuer or Breitling. If you want an honest answer comparing TAG Heuer to Breitling, Breitling is without question the better brand. Breitling’s flagship watches are the Breitling Navitimer ( a legendary pilot watch) or Breitling Chronomat (combined pilot watch and divers watch). Navitimer and Chronomat are the very best that Breitling can offer you.

       If your son is a connoisseur of unusual handmade watches maybe he should opt for dress watches by luxury brands such as Chopard. However, handmade luxury dress watches are fragile and may not be suited for an active lifestyle.

       It all depends really on what your son is interested in but given his age I’d go with sports/divers watches, and out of the brands you mentioned, I’d personally pick Breitling.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
56. Ivan May 8, 2016

    Hey Alexander

    I don’t know if you still check on this site, but I just read your article and it was fabulous. I wanted to ask you if you could give me an in depth opinion about Longines and their watches. I like the brand but I’m worried about their accuracy, quality and the ability to adapt to different environments. By that I mean, the fact that I travel a lot and I want to have a good mechanical watch that fits the quality and price sweet spot.

    I thank you already,

    My best
    Ivan

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorMay 8, 2016

       Hey Ivan and a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.
       Longines is an excellent brand – I’d rank it among say the top 20-25 brands. Considering what you pay for their watches you get excellent and accurate ETA movements, water resistant cases (among their divers watches) and generally speaking a good build quality and quality bracelets and leather straps. I have a Longines myself – a Longines HydroConquest, and it works like a charm. It does in all honesty lose a few seconds per day and it’s a good idea if you set the correct time say once every two or three weeks. After two or three weeks my watch might run 1 minute too slow. But taken as a whole, it’s not really a big deal. I can recommend you Longines for sure.

       I thank you as well.
       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
57. robbyjai April 29, 2016

    interesting article… i own 13 of the watch brands you have listed here…. of curiosity is why you left out brands like Piaget and has the history, the innovation and prestige behind the brand…..and not to mention which are very highly regarded… having said that… which one of your existing list would i have chopped to fit the Piaget into the 15.. not sure to be honest…. as a whole i dont disagree with your list…

    on another hand your list order… i would challenge… the top 3.. i would agree with… however your ranking of breguet so lowly at number 7 is an interesting decision.

    in terms of history, complications, artistry of their watches, innovations.. prestige (you yourself mentioned the a list who’s who of breguet wearers)… many regard..Breguet to be a Holy Trinity in place of AP…. and Breguet is widely coveted in terms of everything… certain well above Rolex… unlike AP which relies heavily on its Royal Oak /Offshore line of watches.. breguet has several lines of signature pieces like the Marine, Classique, Tradition etc…… and their complication pieces rivals the Vacheron and Pateks….

    Many would say …. that Breguet, A.Lange and JLC would sit on the 2nd Tier just outside of the big 3.

    I’d like to hear your thoughts about this and why you ranked as such.. based on your criteria and your ranking I would have ranked in this particular order with no particular bias to any one brand..

    15. Cartier
    14. Breitling
    13. Hublot
    12. Panerai
    11. Omega
    10. Zenith
    9. IWC Schaffhausen
    8. Rolex
    7. Blancpain
    6. Jaeger LeCoultre
    5. A Lange & Söhne
    4. Breguet
    3. Audemars Piguet
    2. Vacheron Constantin
    1. Patek Philippe

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorApril 29, 2016

       Hello Robby and welcome to swissdiverswatches.com.

       You’ve raised many valid points. You’re indeed right: Piaget is without question a high end brand, but based on the 14 criteria, it lacks fame, has had a small impact on modern culture, maintains a marginal market presence (a relatively unknown brand) and the resale value isn’t equivalent to say Patek or Rolex. On top of that Piaget is no longer an independent brand – it’s nowadays a Richemont Group subsidiary. For these reasons I can’t include Piaget in the top 15 but I would include the brand in say the top 20.

       Yes I always knew that sooner or later someone would question my decision to rank Rolex above Breguet. I guess watch purists would consider that to be blasphemy? I’ll explain.

       Rolex is an independent industrial and financial giant – the only fully independent giant outside of corporate groups such as Swatch Group, Richemont Group, LVMH etc. Rolex’s steel grade, build quality, resale value, fame, prestige, market presence, technical innovations, impact on watchmaking history, impact on modern culture, general in-house production, accurate, reliable and serviceable movements, hard-wearing and robust timepieces, are almost unmatched on the commercial luxury wristwatch market today.

       Yes without question, Rolex builds mainly meat and potatoes movements while Breguet is a high end watch brand focused on dress watches and movement complications. That’s true, but that itself does not mean that Rolex doesn’t have the knowledge or knowhow to build complicated movements. The Rolex Sky Dweller is an absolute piece of art and I would definitely consider that to be higher watchmaking. However most people tend to opt for Rolex’s simplier meat and potatoes watches and movements while ignoring higher end Rolexes such as the Sky Dwellers.

       By contrast, Breguet is a commercial midget with a marginal market presence, low or poor resale value, few people have heard of this brand, and the brand has lost its independence – it’s nowadays a Swatch Group subsidiary. And like I mentioned before, Rolex is by contrast, a globally known industrial and financial giant and a powerhouse with a resale value second to none.

       I know that from a watch purist point of view, luxury watch brands that are specialized in hand made dress watches and movement complications, tend to be ranked higher in the hierarchy, but I have a very different approach and I use several criteria – many of which I’ve already mentioned in the article above.

       I sense that you believe that Breguet should be ranked higher than Rolex due to technical wizardry and movement complications. Without a doubt, technical wizardry and movement complications are a few of the criteria I use, but I also focus on resale value and market presence, whether or not the watchmaker is independent, general in-house production, quality tests performed in the factories, customer service, warranty, bang for the buck, raw, sheer and unmitigated build quality, raw performance, steel grade, accurate, serviceable and reliable movements, functional and practical timepieces etc. In that sense, I just think that Rolex is a more complete brand and manufacturer than Breguet.

       Don’t get me wrong: I love Breguet, I respect the brand, Breguet invented the tourbillon and the brand is indeed a master innovator and inventor, but if it weren’t for Swatch Group’s financial and industrial muscles I doubt very much that Breguet would even exist today.

       For the same reasons above, I’d rank Rolex above Blancpain as well.

       Well, the Jaeger LeCoultre vs Breguet comparison is a tricky one. Both brands are high end brands specialized in complications. In similarity to Swatch Group’s Breguet, Jaeger LeCoultre too has lost its independence and is nowadays a subsidiary of the Richemont Group.

       Both brands (and their founders) are absolutely brilliant with a technical wizardry that few brands can match but I would give a slight edge to Jaeger LeCoultre – mainly due to the fact that it has a considerably larger range of watch collections (and types of watches – dress watches, sports watches, divers watches etc) than Breguet. On top of that, JLC has the famous “Jaeger LeCoultre 1000-hours Quality Control”, and in the past, several other luxury watch brands such as Audemars Piguet, Breguet, Cartier, Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe, have purchased their movements from Jaeger LeCoultre. That’s why I would rank Jaeger LeCoultre higher than Breguet.

       As far as Panerai vs Hublot and Panerai vs Breitling are concerned: Based on my criteria, taking movement complications and market presence, innovation, impact on modern culture and fame into consideration, I’d definitely rank Breitling and Hublot above Panerai. Panerai is famous for their luminescent dials, unconventional crown protectors and their historical connection to the Italian Navy. Panerai’s watches pretty much look all the same – there is a very small variation in Panerai’s collections. Hublot makes some pretty serious movement complications and uses very unorthodox materials.

       Breitling is COSC certified, makes among the best chronograph movements on the market such as Breitling in-house automatic Breitling 01, and Breitling in-house automatic Breitling 04, and can boast with more than 10 collections of divers watches and in 1962, Scott Carpenter used a Breitling Navitimer for his orbital flight in the Aurora 7 capsule. Breitling can boast with the first chronograph wrist watch in space. Breitling was used in the Bond movie Thunderball (1965). I would always place Breitling above Panerai.

       With regard to Zenith vs Omega and IWC vs Omega: all three are subsidiaries and have lost their independence. Zenith is a subsidiary of LVMH, IWC Schaffhausen is a subsidiary of Richemont Group and Omega is a subsidiary of Swatch Group. As far as history and impact on modern culture are concerned: to me this is a non-brainer. Omega wins hands down.

       As far as impressive history is concerned, no watchmaker or brand beats Omega. The long lasting competition with Rolex, producing among the most accurate and reliable movements on the market, the legendary Seamaster divers watches, the connection to the Bond franchise, the Omega Speedmaster Professional – tested by NASA and qualified for space travel and first watch worn on the moon. In 1917, Omega became the official timekeeper of The British Royal Airforce, and in 1918, the watchmaker became the official timekeeper of The US Army.

       Market presence: Omega is by far more famous and well known than Zenith and IWC.
       Movements: Omega is the only brand with access to Co-Axial movements that have proven to be among the best performance machines in the luxury watch market. Omega’s Co-Axial 2500, 8500 and 9300 movements are among the most accurate automatic movements available today on the luxury watch market. Not even Blancpain and Breguet that are owned by Swatch Group, have access to Co-Axial movements and Co-Axial technology. Omega alone can boast with their Co-Axial movements.

       Zenith’s movement’s are probably, in all fairness, slightly more accurate than Omega’s, but Zenith is a marginal brand that few have heard of. Of course, that doesn’t diminish in the slightest the technical wizardry of Zenith, but this is a relatively anonymous brand which has, in all fairness, an extremely limited market presence.

       IWC relies mostly on ETA movements while very few of their watches contain movement complications. Each brand has its obvious advantages and disadvantages, but overall, I’d rank Omega above Zenith and IWC.

       I apologize for my lengthy and elaborate explanations, but I hope I’ve more or less answered your questions.
       Thank you.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
58. barry January 13, 2016

    hello. do you have an opinion on Harry Winston mens timepieces? hoe do they compare to A long sohne?

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorJanuary 13, 2016

       Hello Barry,

       Thank you for posting your question, and let’s briefly compare the similarities and differences between the two brands.

       In short, I guess you could say that Harry Winston is all about design, while A. Lange & Söhne is about pedigree, and manufacture. A few Harry Winstons have movements made by our time’s greatest watchmakers, but the differences between these two brands are in fact very significant.

       Harry Winston started out as an American brand from New York while A. Lange & Söhne was established in Saxony in Germany.

       Harry Winston makes high-end watches with a wild and radical design, whereas A. Lange & Söhne makes high-end watches with a considerably more traditional and classic design.
       Despite these obvious differences in design, a few of their models share aesthetical similarities.

       As far as pedigree is concerned, Harry Winston doesn’t have the heritage and the history of A. Lange & Söhne. In similarity to the most obvious example of a general luxury product brand, such as Cartier, Harry Winston isn’t a true watchmaker. The brand is about luxury items and jewelry, which would include very expensive luxury wristwatches, and in similarity to Cartier, Harry Winston isn’t limited to wristwatches – they make earstuds, rings and necklaces as well. So just like Cartier, Harry Winston is a miscellaneous luxury product manufacturer.

       A. Lange & Söhne on the other hand, is a full-fledged higher watchmaking brand of the finest tradition. A. Lange & Söhne makes elite world class luxury wristwatches on an extremely limited scale – about 5000 timepieces per year, and that’s all they make. The soul of the whole company is 100% dedicated to manufacturing extreme luxury timepieces and nothing but extreme luxury timepieces. Almost 50% of their staff consists of watchmakers. A. Lange & Söhne is fully comparable to Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre and Breguet.

       As far as movements are concerned, A. Lange & Söhne makes among the best mechanical movements you can find on the market today – fully comparable to the “Holy Trinity” and Jaeger LeCoultre.
       Harry Winston on the other hand, doesn’t necessarily make movements befitting of the epithet “elite mechanical movements” or “higher watchmaking”. Some of their models use complications, but that isn’t unique to Harry Winston, nor would I refer to Harry Winston as a prime example of “higher watchmaking”. Harry Winston makes elegant and luxurious precious prestige watches, and they have pretty radical designs, but the actual technology and mechanics of their timepieces aren’t anything spectacular in comparison to A. Lange & Söhne. I guess everything is relative.

       What both brands have in common is that they both have lost their independence to major corporate groups. Nowadays, Harry Winston is owned by Swatch Group and A. Lange & Söhne is owned by Richemont Group.

       Hope this helps
       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
59. Mohamed December 22, 2015

    Thanks for your detailed explanation. Could you please let me know what are the other sources where we can see the luxury watches brand rankings? I searched on Forbes, however it only gives the over-all luxury segment ranking. I need to research on the luxury watches brand rankings for 2014 & 2015.

    Thanks so much for your help

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorDecember 23, 2015

       Hello there. I’m glad you find the article useful.
       Just Google “top luxury watch brands” and you’ll see a whole bunch of alternatives on the first page on Google.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
60. T K Gupta December 15, 2015

    Thanks for your detailed, in-depth and unbiased analysis of watch brands.

    It really enlightened my understanding of luxury watches.

    I am planning to buy Omega Speedmaster DSOM. I am concerned about the brittleness of ceramic case. Is it long lasting or could break over a period of time due to small shocks?

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorDecember 15, 2015

       Thanks TK Gupta for your kind words and I’m glad you like the article.
       The Omega Speedmaster DSOM Ceramic is an excellent timepiece with a highly scratch resistant ceramic case. I don’t own such timepiece, but I haven’t heard anything bad about the quality of the case. The ceramic case of the Omega Speedmaster DSOM appears to be quite robust and strong.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
61. j238 August 24, 2015

    The current Blancpain operation is not related to the history described here.

    The brand was not produced for a long time. The rights to the name were purchased and its use has been revived.

    Reply ↓
    1. Alexander Post authorAugust 25, 2015

       Hi Jonathan and a warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com,

       In what sense is the current Blancpain brand not related to the history of Blancpain?

       This could be virtually said of every single Swiss and non-Swiss brand that has lost its independence, and has been purchased by large conglomerates, concerns and corporate groups such as Swatch Group, Richemont Group or LVMH. The exact same thing could be said of Omega, Tissot, Certina, Longines, Glasshütte Original and Breguet since they in similarity to Blancpain, are owned by Swatch Group.

       By the same token, Vacheron Constantin, Panerai, IWC, A. Lange & Söhne, Jaeger LeCoultre and Cartier for example, may not claim their respective brand history, since they are no longer independent, and are currently owned by Richemont Group.

       Indeed, Blancpain has been sold to several corporations on several occasions, but the brand name, and its venerable tradition of higher watchmaking have been restored by Swatch Group. The exact same thing could be said of Breguet as well.

       Cheers
       Alexander

       Reply ↓
       1. Francois June 3, 2022

          Alex
          I am late to the party, but boy ..this is the best ranking read I have ever seen. Love the criteria’s definition and agree will almost everything stated. This is an awesome ranking. Makes me want to read more about what you have to say about watches in general.
          Thx much! I bookmarked this and already forwarded to few friends.
          François

          Reply ↓
          1. Alexander Post authorJune 3, 2022

             Hello François!
             And a very warm welcome to swissdiverswatches.com!
             I’m glad you like the article and that you find it useful. I’m humbled and grateful for your kind words.

             Cheers!
             Alexander

             Reply ↓